Thread: Things to check when looking at a D2

Originally Posted by Astrid14

Hi there, this has probably been posted 1000s of times, but I wanted to make my own post regardless. Hope that is fine!

I also had a question for any who might know much about how a D2 compares to a Nissan patrol 3L turbo (make year 2005-10). In an overlanding and 4x4 sense, they both have their own strengths and weaknesses, but I'd love to hear opinions and experience of those

Also are there any specific things I should check for when purchasing a D2 at this time?

Thanks and please let me know if anyone would like more information.

Few observations. The Patrol is much bigger. This has pros and cons. Patrol has more room, but it isn't packaged as well as a D2 ( my son has a Y61 [and a Y62, but that's a whole different kettle of fish] and we had them side by side just last weekend). Patrol can go to 35" tyres with no engineering requirements. Patrol is cruder, rides like the truck it is, but apart from that 3.0 turbodiesel it is bulletproof. But the size makes it less nimble, and thirsty.
The 3.0. Great in a Navara. They are known as a hand grenade in Patrols. Which is why my son has what is a rare Y61, a TD42 auto. The 3.0 self destructed and the TD42 was put in mated to the auto. Not great as the auto was not designed for it, but his is getting better with tweaks. IMO the TD5 is a vastly superior engine in this comparison.
What to look for in a D2. Well, firstly I would highly recommend looking for a D2a facelift. There are a number of reasons that others can detail, but mine is not the facelift and I wish it was in a way. Pre facelift cars are still good though, just try and make sure you get one with the CDL installed and connected. Check the chassis is not cracked near the steering box. Common issue. Can be repaired simply but getting at it is a PITA.
There was an issue with the oil pump drive where a bolt was installed without loctite. Most of them should have been dealt with, but I would want to know for sure because it's a showstopper if it fails. It's just a matter of removing the sump.

I'll let others have their say. But for me it's the Disco. But, I'm solo, so room doesn't matter so much.

Originally Posted by Tins

"I would highly recommend looking for a D2a facelift."

Are you referring to a 03/04' model?
Interesting observation about the engine. Also - are there fixes that can be done to stop engine oil from getting into the transmission by (i think it is this) the harness?

Is there a way to check that?

Originally Posted by Astrid14

Are you referring to a 03/04' model?

Yes, although I believe it was introduced in 02. The engine was updated a little. Otherwise I think it was mostly cosmetic.. Oh, and I think it was then that LR saw the error of their ways and reinstated the CDL as standard.

Originally Posted by Astrid14

Interesting observation about the engine. Also - are there fixes that can be done to stop engine oil from getting into the transmission by (i think it is this) the harness?

Is there a way to check that?

I think that you might be referring to engine oil entering the ECU? If so, you remove the red plug from the ECU and look. Oil there can cause problems, but not too severe. The "fix" is to replace the injector harness, a simple job that some of us treat as a service item these days.

Oh. A major thing, and the very first thing I would check, is the condition of the double cardan joint on the front drive shaft. These are often neglected, and if they fail it's usually a catastrophic fail that can destroy the transmission. Not a problem if picked up. Uni joints are also a service item, but so many people, me included, can overlook them. I caught mine just in time.

IMG_4045.jpg

Originally Posted by Astrid14

Are you referring to a 03/04' model?
Interesting observation about the engine. Also - are there fixes that can be done to stop engine oil from getting into the transmission by (i think it is this) the harness?

Is there a way to check that?

There is no way for engine oil to get into the transmission.

I think what you may be referring too is the wiring loom that plugs into the injectors.

Oil gets into this loom and travels to the engine ECU and causes random faults, it's not a big issue, but somewhat frustrating.

Easily fixed by a new injector loom which will cost a few hundred dollars in parts by the time you are done.

Takes some time for the oil in the rest of the loom to leave though.

Other than that, the D2 is a great car, much nicer than a patrol in my opinion, the driveline in the D2 is not as strong, but I think a TD5 is a better motor than either the 4.2 or the 3.0 (zd30).

Originally Posted by Tins

Yes, although I believe it was introduced in 02. The engine was updated a little. Otherwise I think it was mostly cosmetic.. Oh, and I think it was then that LR saw the error of their ways and reinstated the CDL as standard.




I think that you might be referring to engine oil entering the ECU? If so, you remove the red plug from the ECU and look. Oil there can cause problems, but not too severe. The "fix" is to replace the injector harness, a simple job that some of us treat as a service item these days.

Oh. A major thing, and the very first thing I would check, is the condition of the double cardan joint on the front drive shaft. These are often neglected, and if they fail it's usually a catastrophic fail that can destroy the transmission. Not a problem if picked up. Uni joints are also a service item, but so many people, me included, can overlook them. I caught mine just in time.

IMG_4045.jpg

I am grateful for the info. Can you view this from the top down into the hood, or do you need to get underneath? thanks again. New to this, but I'd like to eventually do my own work.

Assuming I had one, are they easy to get under using a high lift jack on one of the middle parts, or is it recommended to get lift points installed?

Originally Posted by Astrid14

I am grateful for the info. Can you view this from the top down into the hood, or do you need to get underneath? thanks again. New to this, but I'd like to eventually do my own work.

Assuming I had one, are they easy to get under using a high lift jack on one of the middle parts, or is it recommended to get lift points installed?

Underneath. You need a prybar or similar, as it's not always obvious to the naked eye.

AFAIK there are no HLJ suitable points, other than one of those strap through the wheel thingys. A GS rear bar with jacking points is a good upgrade.Side bars ditto. Front, I'm not sure. I've heard some say you can't put jack points on a front bar due to airbag stuff, but I can't verify, and personally doubt it. Pays to check.

Originally Posted by Astrid14

New to this, but I'd like to eventually do my own work.

Don't take my word for all of this. Plenty of people here who know D2s better than me.

But, two things to get if you like hands on. Number one is the RAVE workshop manual, that Incisor, sells in CD form in the forum shop. It is comprehensive, far better than anything you'll buy elsewhere, and number two is a Nanocom diagnostic tool. Not at all cheap, but will pay for itself. The D2, in particular the TD5, talk to it better than most other OBD2 devices. And it can do so many things. At least, get to know a D2 owner that has one.

Freed Rave I CD – Affordable Computer Repairs – DavecandoIT

Originally Posted by Tins

Don't take my word for all of this. Plenty of people here who know D2s better than me.

But, two things to get if you like hands on. Number one is the RAVE workshop manual, that Incisor, sells in CD form in the forum shop. It is comprehensive, far better than anything you'll buy elsewhere, and number two is a Nanocom diagnostic tool. Not at all cheap, but will pay for itself. The D2, in particular the TD5, talk to it better than most other OBD2 devices. And it can do so many things. At least, get to know a D2 owner that has one.

Freed Rave I CD – Affordable Computer Repairs – DavecandoIT

No worries, thanks. With regards to finding one to buy as well. Is the ODO something to be concerned about? I have been searching for one with a manual transmission for some time, but can't seem to find any. Additionally, many autos have done 200k, 300k, 400k+. Yes, they are an old car, but is simply looking for one that has low KMs the goal, or can one that has been well looked after that has done say even 400k.. worth looking at?

Thanks again.