td5 bad throttle response

Actuator or wastegate lever?

When the engine first starts does it stutter then come to a smooth idle, or does it fire instantly?

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Originally Posted by AK83

So it seems you need a new MAF like SF mentioned, but this isn't the issue you're having. With a dead MAF, if disconnected the engine will run a bit better. So you still have an issue to find.



Highly recommended(if you want to get the engine running good again) ... don't waste too much money on just buying parts(or incompatible scan tools).
I've been through this too.
If you want to keep the disco going, it is very highly recommended that you get a nanocom(or Hawkeye). The money you spend on this will save you money in the long run(on parts you probably don't need to replace)
And like everyone has already mentioned, with the nanocom it will do datalogging so that you upload the saved log, and it will **almost likely** show the problem.

There are some situations where it won't show a problem, but not many.
eg. I haven't yet seen anyone mention that the fuel pressure regulator could be bad. There are a couple of options for changing it, one cheap, one more expensively(full kit). Fuel pressure is not monitored(fuel temp is) so diagnositic equipment will not reveal this info.
You have to measure fuel pressure manually.
That td5 MAF test video you watched, TrailerFitterToolbox ... he also has a video on how to check fuel pressure.

Check your ECU part number, does it start with MSB or NNN?
My understanding of the fuel pressure regulator(FPR) is that 10P also have the "3 pipe" in later years.
Again, my knowledge on 10P vs 15P engines are that (as std) MSB is for 10P and NNN is for 15P. NNN is more easily programmable, MSB needs chip replacement. Switching from MSB to NNN is a desirable modification for some folks, so no guarantee of indication that your engine is 10P or 15P.

Why I say this is, on my D2 TD5 I had a lot of problem trying to upload a ECU program a while ago. What happened was that the ECU didn't match the VIN number. Also turned out that the BCU didn't match too. A previous owner had issues(got the D2 stuck in deep water) and obviously swapped out dead electronics ... so again, no guarantee that ECUs are original.

What is more important here tho: Don't do same mistakes as other have .. waste money on swapping parts, instead of spending on tools that will identify issues. I'm guilty of this. Not 100% guarantee that the diagnostic tool will locate your issue, but it certainly helps.
diagnostic(in mine and many others here) nanocom is used for a few other reasons. One issue with Hawkeye now is availability and longevity. It is a Bearmach product, and Bearmach is now no longer in business. May be hard to find to buy, and or any future updates for it may no longer be possible.

Wastegate modulator(bypass). WGM can cause boost pressure issues. the solenoid costs about $60-100. You can easily check it by bypassing it. There are three hoses check them carefully, take a photo for reference .. it is easy to put them back incorrectly again.
You can bypass it by running a pipe directly from the lower intercooler pipe to the wastegate actuator, this will bypass the valve. I can't remember is any of the hoses are long enough to do this. but it's OK to have the hoses on the WGM solenoid disconnected for a short test. What will happen tho is that if this is the problem, as you build up (turbo)power in the engine it will most likely overboost, and then the ECU will cause new lack of power issues which is easy to fix again by turning engine off and start again.
So WGM bypass is not a proper fix for WGM problems. Just a easy zero cost method to work out if its no good.

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- I searched for an NANOCOM on sale in my country but no results on internet, i will try to search on discovery 2 clubs, maybe someone is interessed on selling me one hehe, btw i found an hawkeye from second hand for 550 usd in a trustable website in my country, does is it worth ?

- This week i'm going to take the vehicle to a mechanical workshop to do a fuel pressure test, to make sure.

- Checked my ECU number , and also i took a shot of engine numbers above the exhaust manifold
Attachment 188275Attachment 188274

Maybe this is the reason why my td5 doesnt pull away normally, with that such lack of power, and also show that crossed B on instrument dashboard ?

- After doing that fuel pressure test i will do a quicly test "by passing" the wastegate modulator to see the result.

A merry Christmas to everyone !!! [bigsmile1]

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Originally Posted by discorevy

When the engine first starts does it stutter then come to a smooth idle, or does it fire instantly?

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When is it the first start of the day it fires instantly but goes a little rough then come to a normal idle

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Originally Posted by Henryque

When is it the first start of the day it fires instantly but goes a little rough then come to a normal idle

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Interesting, I've never seen an EU3 (16p) engine with a MSB ECU.

In Australia, all the pre facelift EU3 engines that I've seen all had the NNN ECU, the VIN should have been on the ECU as well. Might be worth checking, but it may have come off over the years.

Anyhow, the starting symptom as well as the other symptoms you describe is typical of incorrect cam timing, so check that as I suspect it's out.

Merry Christmas

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Originally Posted by discorevy

Interesting, I've never seen an EU3 (16p) engine with a MSB ECU.

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Me either.

I'd be interested to see a .bin from 1 of those ECUs.

First of all Merry Christmas!

As about the ECU which is MSB101193 it's an early Eu2 ECU which was factory fitted to 2000MY vehicles, i've seen several 2002MY pre-facelifts factory fitted with 15P engines and MSB101330/340 and most of those ECUs have failed.

i doubt that they were "clean" Eu3s cos even though they were 15P with green injectors they have the 3 wire AAP sensor not the 4 wire one with temperature input which is necessary for Eu3 fuel maps so a kind of strange "hybrid", the transition to Eu3 NNNs. Unfortunately i didnt remove to read a chip out of these so can't provide more info but i can vouch for those two ECU numbers

IMO the problem is that you have the wrong Eu2 engine ECU in the vehicle, that one is mapped for black injectors and would not accept green injector codes but i insist that the flashing B has nothing to do with that, it's about the BCU - IDM relation

sustained by lrcat( Lrcat )

• MSB101193 - > ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE [ (V)YA251680 - (V)YA288370 ]
  
  • MSB101330 - > ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE [ (V)YA288371 - (V)2A736339 ]
  
  
  
  
  
  

Has this issue only recently developed, or has the OP bought the car ,hoping to fix it.
I ask, as if the car has been known to run satisfactorily, with the current configuration, wrong ecu s, 10/15p hybred, are all moot in this situation.
If the problem has just developed, I'm suspecting timing or fuel pump failure.

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

First of all Merry Christmas!

As about the ECU which is MSB101193 it's an early Eu2 ECU which was factory fitted to 2000MY vehicles, i've seen several 2002MY pre-facelifts factory fitted with 15P engines and MSB101330/340 and most of those ECUs have failed.

i doubt that they were "clean" Eu3s cos even though they were 15P with green injectors they have the 3 wire AAP sensor not the 4 wire one with temperature input which is necessary for Eu3 fuel maps so a kind of strange "hybrid", the transition to Eu3 NNNs. Unfortunately i didnt remove to read a chip out of these so can't provide more info but i can vouch for those two ECU numbers

IMO the problem is that you have the wrong Eu2 engine ECU in the vehicle, that one is mapped for black injectors and would not accept green injector codes but i insist that the flashing B has nothing to do with that, it's about the BCU - IDM relation

sustained by lrcat( Lrcat )

• MSB101193 - > ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE [ (V)YA251680 - (V)YA288370 ]
  
  • MSB101330 - > ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT ENGINE [ (V)YA288371 - (V)2A736339 ]
  
  
  
  
  
  

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Yes, it won't run properly with the early ECU for sure, but the symptoms mentioned are also what happens with bad cam timing.

Attached is a pic of a NNN unit I have which predates the cut off in your link for the MSB101330, ( faded VIN but the last digits are 2A716030 ) very strange that they'd continue manufacture of MSB units after production of NNN units.
I'm not saying you're wrong, only that I haven't come across it in Australia.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by V8Ian

Has this issue only recently developed, or has the OP bought the car ,hoping to fix it.
I ask, as if the car has been known to run satisfactorily, with the current configuration, wrong ecu s, 10/15p hybred, are all moot in this situation.
If the problem has just developed, I'm suspecting timing or fuel pump failure.

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Yes, good logic.

I'm guessing, but between someone fitting an earlier ECU ( and possibly selling the ( debatable ) NNN for more $$$ if , as the O.P. states he wasn't sure of the integrity of the previous owner, that the chances of them ( I'm thinking stereotypical used car yard ) also doing a head gasket and bodging it are quite high.

Even "specialist Landy repairers" get it wrong as they are only as good as the "Tech" working on it.

I have a spot in my workshop where I hang the old rocker cover gaskets over the years from 1 Perth independent Landy workshop ( I'm also sure they have shares in blue RTV silicone as everything from cam plugs, water pumps, oil cooler gaskets and rocker cover gaskets are covered in it ) that have got the cam timing so far out that the car has terrible performance.

3 of their previous customers have taken the car back, only to then come out with a remap as " yes, they go a lot better with a remap". ( the receipts tell the story )

Needless to say, the owners have been ecstatic when the cam timing and bump clearances have been set correctly.

There are 7 old gaskets hanging in that spot.

There has been more from other places, but they have gone in the bin.