Thread: SRS light + loss of Cruise Control

Originally Posted by Seagoat

Hello fellow LR home mechanics, have a 2002 D2 Td5 and fitted a new (bottom) UJ to lower steering shaft & tightened adjustment on steering box. Whilst putting UJ on found about 10-15mm play in shaft and pushed it back up towards steering wheel, finished up and drove car for a day. Steering was heavy and there was obvious constriction in steering wheel. After a few hours lost cruise control and SRS came on dash. Got home, undid UJ and restored original 10-15mm play in shaft and backed off adjustment in steering box. Steering was returned to normal albeit with better precision. Nanocom identifies SRS fault as "open circuit" Have I severed SRS + Cruise Control cables at the clock spring in the steering wheel. Anyone had experience with this ? Thoughts?

Are you sure it is at the clock spring? I thought I had the same problem with the horn/CC and stripped it back to the clock spring. With testing, the fault was actually up at the fuse box and was repaired with a parrallel wire.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Are you sure it is at the clock spring? I thought I had the same problem with the horn/CC and stripped it back to the clock spring. With testing, the fault was actually up at the fuse box and was repaired with a parrallel wire.

I'd only assumed that the 2 faults were caused by my repair on the lower steering shaft, as they both appeared together after my repair. Is the horn and CC on the one fuse? Do you know if there is a fuse for the SRS?

Originally Posted by Seagoat

I'd only assumed that the 2 faults were caused by my repair on the lower steering shaft, as they both appeared together after my repair. Is the horn and CC on the one fuse? Do you know if there is a fuse for the SRS?

The horn and CC are on the one circuit, I think the SRS it totally seperate. Hopefully they're just unplugged if they've happened at the same time then!

Originally Posted by Seagoat

.... Nanocom identifies SRS fault as "open circuit" Have I severed SRS + Cruise Control cables at the clock spring in the steering wheel? Anyone had experience with this ? Thoughts?

Really unlikely you'd have gone near the clock spring moving the lower column inwards like that. If it were possible, I'd for sure be selling the D2 for fear of safety.
The main column is designed to collapse in on itself in the event of a frontal crash if severe enough, and the lower column won't go so far into the upper column to allow intereference with the airbag. That would have to be the most monumental blunder on the part of whoever designed the column.

Originally Posted by Seagoat

... Is the horn and CC on the one fuse? Do you know if there is a fuse for the SRS?

Common denominator on all 3 circuits the engine compartment fusebox.
The underside of the lid shows which each relay and fuse does.

Horns get power from Fuse 16 in the engine bay fuse box, but goes through Relay 13 to the horns.

Link 8 in the engine compartment fuse box powers fuses in the interior fuse box: Fuse 35 for the SRS and also Fuse 30 for CC control module too.

If you reckon they all went down at the same time and you were working on the steering column, may have been an inadvertent bang/bump/strike on a wire/loom, or underside of the engine fuse box and fused two wires in some way in there.

Hope its there for 'ya.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

The horn and CC are on the one circuit, I think the SRS it totally seperate. Hopefully they're just unplugged if they've happened at the same time then!

I did the work and I didn't unplug anything. Both the CC and the SRS are steering wheel based functions ie drivers airbag. Both faults appeared after I completed the work so I'm working on the assumption that I instigated the faults. What I will do is check to see if the horn works tomorrow on my drive to work. I may have shorted those wires with my actions with the steering wheel post repair.

Originally Posted by AK83

Really unlikely you'd have gone near the clock spring moving the lower column inwards like that. If it were possible, I'd for sure be selling the D2 for fear of safety.
The main column is designed to collapse in on itself in the event of a frontal crash if severe enough, and the lower column won't go so far into the upper column to allow intereference with the airbag. That would have to be the most monumental blunder on the part of whoever designed the column.



Common denominator on all 3 circuits the engine compartment fusebox.
The underside of the lid shows which each relay and fuse does.

Horns get power from Fuse 16 in the engine bay fuse box, but goes through Relay 13 to the horns.

Link 8 in the engine compartment fuse box powers fuses in the interior fuse box: Fuse 35 for the SRS and also Fuse 30 for CC control module too.

If you reckon they all went down at the same time and you were working on the steering column, may have been an inadvertent bang/bump/strike on a wire/loom, or underside of the engine fuse box and fused two wires in some way in there.

Hope its there for 'ya.

Thanks Arthur you've given me a few clues to narrow this down. We're not so much amateur LR mechanics but detectives hunting for clues....

I've got a rotary coupler, aka clock spring here somewhere. I would take a pic, cos I can't see how you could have screwed it up unless the column is toast, as has been suggested. The shaft simply passes through it, and is secured at the wheel.

Be very cautious working around the yellow wires, and under no circumstances use a multimeter or similar. Things can go BANG!

Originally Posted by Tins

I've got a rotary coupler, aka clock spring here somewhere. I would take a pic, cos I can't see how you could have screwed it up unless the column is toast, as has been suggested. The shaft simply passes through it, and is secured at the wheel.

Be very cautious working around the yellow wires, and under no circumstances use a multimeter or similar. Things can go BANG!

I've checked all the relevant fuses (engine & cabin), and lifted the engine fusebox up to check connections -they are solid. There are not obvious breaks on any of the engine wires exiting the fusebox- they all look good. Just to clarify I've lost horn, cruise control and have the SRS light on the dash. The only fault the Nanocom picks up is a fault in the Drivers Airbag, and it describes it as an "open circuit". I flipped through my Haynes workshop manual last night and it warns not to turn the steering wheel when you have the lower steering shaft detached, which I did do when I was fitting the UJ to line it up on the spline. As I mentioned above the other thing I did was I slid the lower shaft up about 10-15mm which I thought was slack I thought shouldn't be there. The constriction at the steering wheel happened after. An open circuit would suggest break in the wire, Yes?