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Thread: Immobiliser and eka code

  1. #1
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    Immobiliser and eka code

    Apologies if this has been asked and answered to death, I have looked but couldn't find anything relevant to my particular problem.
    The problem: just purchased a D2A v8 56D auto, ( I currently have another D2A v8 auto with a rusty chassis) The new one was driving has a dodgy key remote and I have inadvertently activated the immobiliser, the ignition barrel is flogged out and badly worn. I have gotten the eka code the local dealership, however this code is not working. I am getting the 1 beep to enter the code and only 1 beep after entering the code. Is the any way of accessing the system while it is immobilised to get the code from the bcu, or a way to by pass it?

  2. #2
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    Some of the top-line (expensive!) dealer equipment can access and even re-program the EKA.
    The one I use is a Nanocom EVO 2, which with the necessary options costs about $800 delivered.
    It will read the code and even reset it to something friendlier, like 1-1-1-1. It will also re-program a key fob into your BCU.
    If you don't possess one or know anyone who does, suggest you look for the sticky:
    Members with diagnostic equipment

    Probably not up-to-date but you might find some generous soul in your location that's willing to assist.
    Otherwise, it's a case of looking for a Land Rover dealer with T4/Testbook equipment nearby and get them to pay a visit.

    Good luck and welcome to the forum...

  3. #3
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    as a quick and dirty option... swap the ecu and bcu from the spare car?

    I totally removed the immobiliser / security option from my girl. Probably not a good idea in Townsville though.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys, I've been a long time lurker, figured I should sign up properly 😀

  5. #5
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    Beg, borrow, steal or as a last resort buy a Nanocom. As mentioned, it can read the EKA code. I changed mine to the much more key friendly 01-01-01-01, so any call to a dealer would be fruitless. This may be the case with yours. However, the EKA process has to be done absolutely right or it won't work. PITA.

    Just in case:
    1
    Using the key turn the drivers door lock to the UNLOCK position and HOLD this position for at least 5 seconds
    An audible warning is then emitted to indicate that the body control unit is ready to accept the code. Return the key to the centre position. It is now possible to use the key to enter the separate numerical values of the four digits that make up the EKA code.


    2
    Enter the first digit of the code. If the first digit is 4, turn the key to the UNLOCK position 4 times.
    Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.


    3
    Enter the second digit of the code. If the second digit is 3, turn the key to the LOCK position 3 times.
    Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.


    4
    Enter the third digit of the code. If the third digit is 2, turn the key to the UNLOCK position twice.
    Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.


    5
    Enter the fourth digit of the code. If the fourth digit is 1, turn the key to the LOCK position once.
    Ensure the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.


    6
    Finally, turn the key to the UNLOCK position and back to the centre position, a double bleep will indicate that the code has been entered correctly. A single bleep indicates that the code has been entered incorrectly.

    Good luck
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
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    ive never tried this but came across it the other day, could be a wind up but worth a try.

    20240615_170322.jpg
    Cheers tt




    D2 2004 TD5 Classic

    --------------------------------------

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by thai_tiger View Post
    ive never tried this but came across it the other day, could be a wind up but worth a try.

    20240615_170322.jpg
    What is it trying to achieve? Turning off the immobiliser?
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayoutwest View Post
    Some of the top-line (expensive!) dealer equipment can access and even re-program the EKA.
    The one I use is a Nanocom EVO 2, which with the necessary options costs about $800 delivered.
    It will read the code and even reset it to something friendlier, like 1-1-1-1. It will also re-program a key fob into your BCU.
    If you don't possess one or know anyone who does, suggest you look for the sticky:
    Members with diagnostic equipment

    Probably not up-to-date but you might find some generous soul in your location that's willing to assist.
    Otherwise, it's a case of looking for a Land Rover dealer with T4/Testbook equipment nearby and get them to pay a visit.

    Good luck and welcome to the forum...
    Please enlight me what can you do to the BCU with nanocom or T4 or even the God of all diagnostic tools while the vehicle is immobilised like the OP's is
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    Please enlight me what can you do to the BCU with nanocom or T4 or even the God of all diagnostic tools while the vehicle is immobilised like the OP's is
    Well, I'm certainly no guru, but he did mention he has another vehicle available to him. That gives rise to such possibilities as reading the spare vehicle's codes (assuming it's not also immobilised, of course), changing BCU/ECU/key fob/ignition switch etc. Which also leads to the possibility of stuffing up a second vehicle, I grant you, but them's the risks when you play Discover The Fault with Discoveries. At this point we don't know all the details - as you well know better than I, it could be any of a multiplicity of factors causing the issue...

  10. #10
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    It is the spare car, that is immobilised. However it is actually the better of the two cars, and I want to register it and de-register the other car. I prefer to have both cars driving, for convenience sake. I have entered the eka code from the dealership, the car excepts the process eg: beeps once to start the process and after it only beeps once again not twice, meaning that the code was entered correctly but it is not the right code.

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