Thread: Td5 losing power but not completely

[QUOTE=Markf;3231981] I've changed all the boost hoses and a few weeks ago I changed the exhaust manifold gasket when it lost the first stud and started leaking. I also changed all the turbo and other exhaust gaskets at the time.

Apologies, just re-read some your thread and you had checked/worked on the manifold to head seal.....

Beginning to suspect your turbo might need a rebuild, is the output side showing much black stuff? I.e. leaking across from exhaust.....

Yesterday I had to play taxi of mum and dad for about 1,000km and apart from the boost leak it behaved perfectly. There is no oil leak around the rocker gasket, there is no fuel leaking into the oil, the air bleed valve is still nice and white and it flies up hills where it would previously drop out of TC lockup. Fuel consumption was good too at around high 9's l/100km.
Now all I need to do is stop the boost leak. The hoses are all good, the exhaust gaskets are all good which leaves the intercooler. I'm not looking forward to tackling that so it can wait a week or so...

Thanks to everyone for your help in getting this latest episode done with.

Originally Posted by Markf

..... The hoses are all good, the exhaust gaskets are all good which leaves the intercooler. I'm not looking forward to tackling that so it can wait a week or so...

Thanks to everyone for your help in getting this latest episode done with.

Hmmm radiator ... D2 ... my experience with this is to burn down car before it drives you to insanity.

Why are cars radiator remval/intall so damned idiotic nowadays???
Just compleetely madly stupid. D2 is maybe more so than even more modern cars too(which are deliberately made stupidly idiotic).

My Peugeot 307 is stupidly odd, and the other day I watched The Car Wizard(Youtube) referring to an Audi of some kind and it's stupid radiator engineering.

For me, the D1 ... really quite simple in real terms ... it's far too much drama, where old Holdens and even semi modern Rodeo and Frontera radiator were a breeze to remove and refit by comparison.

If I were you, before I committing to doing the rad removal/IC job, I'd be looking to either buy, rent or make a smoke tester to confirm where the leak is exactly.

Originally Posted by Markf

which leaves the intercooler. I'm not looking forward to tackling that so it can wait a week or so...

Could you perhaps pressure test the intercooler in situ to confirm it is leaking before ripping it out? I'm thinking a suitably sized can or other object clamped in the IC hose ends and a tyre pressure gauge + valve rigged up to the little WGM hose? We are only talking around 21 psi. Of course, soapy water test all joints to make sure it is sealed.

This thread is a bit of a master class in TD5 diagnostics and thanks to all the contributors as well as the OP for bothering to report back. Much appreciated.

Shining a torch onto the intercooler core (usually where it meets the tanks, and also usually the hot alloy side ) will reveal any evidence of leaking as there are normally signs of oil stains on the leaky ones I have seen (only 2 TD5 discos).

I'm aware I might have R+R'd more than some, but it really isn't that big a job if you need to do it (takes me around 40 minutes if I don't need to remove the radiator or coolant for any other reason) and if it is leaking, then it's a good time for an upgrade, as well as to blow all the crap out of the radiator/ A/C condenser/ trans cooler cores.

I also usually take the time to strengthen the alloy pipe (even with Devcon etc if you don't want to remove and weld ) that enters the Transmission cooler as they are prone to cracking around there if lots of rough roads are on the agenda.

Originally Posted by AK83

Hmmm radiator ... D2 ... my experience with this is to burn down car before it drives you to insanity.

Why are cars radiator remval/intall so damned idiotic nowadays???
Just compleetely madly stupid. D2 is maybe more so than even more modern cars too(which are deliberately made stupidly idiotic).

Oh I know about radiator stupidity. Many, many moons ago I had a Morris Cooper S Mk 1. In order to replace the fan belt you had to remove the fan shroud. In order to remove the fan shroud you had to remove the radiator. In order to remove the radiator you needed to either remove the engine or remove the body from the front sub-frame. My old Cooper S Mk 2 and my 997cc Cooper at least had two piece shrouds...

[deletia]

If I were you, before I committing to doing the rad removal/IC job, I'd be looking to either buy, rent or make a smoke tester to confirm where the leak is exactly.

Yep, for sure some method of leak detecting is the way to go rather than just trying to eyeball it.

Originally Posted by Markf

Oh I know about radiator stupidity. Many, many moons ago I had a Morris Cooper S Mk 1. In order to replace the fan belt you had to remove the fan shroud. In order to remove the fan shroud you had to remove the radiator. In order to remove the radiator you needed to either remove the engine or remove the body from the front sub-frame.

Now, that's a memory hole I wish you hadn't opened.

Given the oily residue in an intercooler, it will be quite obvious were it's leaking.
How is the TD5 cooling pack arranged?
Is the intercooler sandwiched between the radiator and AC condenser or oil cooler?
Can you see down between them?

Tony