Thread: Remove hub, with half shaft. How?

Originally Posted by Bohica

..... How do I unstick the hub? hit it with a big hammer? use a cold chisel? I am loathe to use force in case I break something else.
I could possibly undo the hub nut and then use bearing pullers but how to stop the shaft rotating when trying to get the hub nut undone. I think that the impact driver will just turn the shaft.
Hopefully some one will have a suggestion or two in the time it takes me to remove the calliper and hub bolts on the other side.
......

Haven't done it for years, but IIRC, I undid the hub bolts(4 of them?) not all the way out, just leave a few mm's of thread, then tap each one on the head(from rear obviously) until hub started to slowly gap itself out.
One I had enough gap between hub and steering knuckle, just drifted using various tools .. chisels, screw drivers ... whatever I had easy access too.

I also remember undoing the axle nut on the vise too. smooth out the tab, then hit it with the uggadugga for a few mins, whilst holding shaft in the vise.
Vise was set up on a slab of pine bolted to a couple of saw horses, so, in no way stable enough to use a breaker on it. Had to use rattle gun to remove.
Rattle gun was a lowly Ryobi, buit still had just enough oomph to remove the nut.
I can't remember what I was trying to salvage at the time(for the TD5).
And I have nearly zero memory of doing the one side of the balljoints on the TD5 many months later, except for the woeful welding on the metal contraption I'd made to remove the actual balljoints, which snapped into it's constituent parts.

That is, I can't recall any of the process of removing the hub, etc(on the TD5) but I do remember the snapping of the homemade joint remover, having to weld it back up again and it breaking again.
But for some reason I do remember (the earlier job) of removing the hub and axle as a single unit off the spares hulk in that partly removed bolt manner and tappy-tap method to split the hub from the knuckle.

It's weird how the memory works like that, recalling some things more clearly than others ..

Originally Posted by AK83

Haven't done it for years, but IIRC, I undid the hub bolts(4 of them?) not all the way out, just leave a few mm's of thread, then tap each one on the head(from rear obviously) until hub started to slowly gap itself out.
One I had enough gap between hub and steering knuckle, just drifted using various tools .. chisels, screw drivers ... whatever I had easy access too.

I also remember undoing the axle nut on the vise too. smooth out the tab, then hit it with the uggadugga for a few mins, whilst holding shaft in the vise.
Vise was set up on a slab of pine bolted to a couple of saw horses, so, in no way stable enough to use a breaker on it. Had to use rattle gun to remove.
Rattle gun was a lowly Ryobi, buit still had just enough oomph to remove the nut.
I can't remember what I was trying to salvage at the time(for the TD5).
And I have nearly zero memory of doing the one side of the balljoints on the TD5 many months later, except for the woeful welding on the metal contraption I'd made to remove the actual balljoints, which snapped into it's constituent parts.

That is, I can't recall any of the process of removing the hub, etc(on the TD5) but I do remember the snapping of the homemade joint remover, having to weld it back up again and it breaking again.
But for some reason I do remember (the earlier job) of removing the hub and axle as a single unit off the spares hulk in that partly removed bolt manner and tappy-tap method to split the hub from the knuckle.

It's weird how the memory works like that, recalling some things more clearly than others ..

Thanks, I'll give that a go.

20240824_130112.jpg
Driver's side. The sway bar link has been fitted

20240824_130136.jpg
Passenger side. The sway bar link lower bolt is very stiff, hard to move, angle grinder time. I'd remove the dust shield to get better access, the bolt is between 9 and 10mm 7/32? what is 7/32 in metric? Bloody Land Rover mixing imperial and metric.


20240824_135725.jpg
Out with the old and in with the new, Delphi as Lemforder are not available in Australia,

20240824_130616.jpg
The axle stand.

I am going to have to move the axle stands to the chassis so that the axle will drop enough to give access to the top of the diff.

I am thinking of putting the wheel back on, loosen the stake nut and use a puller to pull out the hub. Then pull out the half shaft. The hubs are not moving and on the passenger side, I cannot get a good hit on the bolt, as per Arthur's suggestion. I need some fancy clamp thing to pull the hub out.

I normally do the same as Arthur, but back the 15mm headed bolts out only 2 or 3 turns, have the steering on full lock one way, so you can hit the bolt head, then diagonally on the other side with steering on full lock the other way etc, until it moves, keep the increasing gap even as it comes out.

The dust shield bolts should have an 8mm head.

Originally Posted by discorevy

I normally do the same as Arthur, but back the 15mm headed bolts out only 2 or 3 turns, have the steering on full lock one way, so you can hit the bolt head, then diagonally on the other side with steering on full lock the other way etc, until it moves, keep the increasing gap even as it comes out.

Me too. A little anti seize on reassembly. It's only time holding it in there.

Originally Posted by Bohica

Passenger side. The sway bar link lower bolt is very stiff, hard to move, angle grinder time. I'd remove the dust shield to get better access, the bolt is between 9 and 10mm 7/32? what is 7/32 in metric? Bloody Land Rover mixing imperial and metric.

Re this and your thread on the diff guard bolts.
I would be surprised if there was any imperial fasteners in a D2, OK I wouldn't be surprised if the drive shaft bolts were.
There was very little on my 85 County, my 95 Defender it's only the drive shaft bolts, same with the young blokes D1s.

A 10mm bolt will be a bit under 10mm if you measure on the threads, much less if you measure the inside of a threaded hole.

The markings on the bolt head and nut will tell if it's metric or imperial, and the grade.

Metric.
Understanding Metric Bolt & Screw Grades — & Head Markings!

Imperial
Bolt Head Markings and What They Mean - Wilson-Garner

Tony

Originally Posted by TonyC

OK I wouldn't be surprised if the drive shaft bolts were.

Gotta have some use for all those half/nine spanners I accumulated in the past. My Holden manifold spanner in particular.

Originally Posted by TonyC

Re this and your thread on the diff guard bolts.
I would be surprised if there was any imperial fasteners in a D2, OK I wouldn't be surprised if the drive shaft bolts were.
There was very little on my 85 County, my 95 Defender it's only the drive shaft bolts, same with the young blokes D1s.

A 10mm bolt will be a bit under 10mm if you measure on the threads, much less if you measure the inside of a threaded hole.

The markings on the bolt head and nut will tell if it's metric or imperial, and the grade.

Metric.
Understanding Metric Bolt & Screw Grades — & Head Markings!

Imperial
Bolt Head Markings and What They Mean - Wilson-Garner

Tony

The bolt I am chasing up, has BS at the top of the hex head and R at the bottom. R can mean BSF, I hope so as I have ordered some.
The drive shaft bolts are 3/8 UNF.