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Thread: fuel pressure loss?

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Totally random thought, but mine became slow to start when I damaged the wiring going to the CPS. It would crank for a while before firing. Sometimes the MIL would come on, but rarely. Seeing he was in that area it's worth a thought. Unlikely, I know, but....
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  2. #12
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    if it's shut down and restarted in short time, it starts no worries. Short time = anywhere withing about 10-15 min range ... give or take and approximately. He's never really measured, just done it.
    So in that sense, yeah, she starts no worries if restarted soon after shut down.
    Again without actually measuring, just a rough figure, eg. 10-30mins ... maybe 15-30 min range ... or whatever beyond the shorter time period being off ... no, she needs the ign on and wait a few seconds for fuel to prime back up.

    Last time I was down there, I had ign on for about 20 sec, and hit starter and it started with maybe 5 sec of cranking, but then died maybe 10 sec later.
    Went to start it again but then nephew took over and used hand to keep a bit of revs up. I didn't notice(or really pay attention too) the any white smoke that he later told me about, but if it was, was very minimal as it wasn't 'bleeding obvious'.

    What I'm thinking of doing is using a couple of quick connects onto fuel hose with a pressure sensor (eg. electronic VDO style) to intercept the the quick connect inlet hose and a gauge to keep an eye on fuel pressure..

    Hes seen the 'difficulty' of doing the FPR, but as I recall(having done twice) the only difficult part(if you dont' remove the inlet manifold) is having two hands in there whilst trying to hold bolts that fall out gasket that is impossible to get a hand or finger too and zip up the bolts ensuring the gasket is correctly seated.
    Actually getting to the individual parts is OK ... so if using the rubber band method to hold bolts and gasket is used, shouldn't be too too hard .. just "annoyingly not made easier"

    ps. considering he's into breaking BMWs ... LR is easy peasy by comparison!

    IIR rightly, the britpart gauze filter oring was a stubby fat thingy, just shy of the correct size of the recess(half a mm or so) as FPR was fitted with head on bench, and seeing that it would compress well being such a thick cross section, I(we) assumed it would seal..
    This is why I(we) think if there is some fitting anomaly with the gauze filter this could be it.
    I've had a look at the FPR and head here in my shed, and I can sort of see it, but still don't make sense .. if the oring is just plain leaking due to wrong size, it just leaks into the inlet and temp sensor port .. so really no reason for any loss of pressure.

    BUT! If the added thickness of the oring(which it was compared to the old one) doesn't let the FPR seat absolutely correctly, the very think strip of the gasket could be comprimised between inlet/sensor port and the return port.

    I had a quick look at discovery2.co.uk and his images re FPR and for sure the britpart o ring sat a lot more proud of the head surface.
    I guess this is why I question the gauze oring .. if it is leaking back into the inlet port, question is it must be important to have a seal there, otherwise why have it in the first place. To me it kind'a doesn't make sense. The gasket 'seals' the inlet/sensor port area anyhow with it's raised seal section .. so why is the gauze filter really there.

    Anyhow, this may be the plan for this Monday(I think). As long as he can get his hands on oring and gasket. a couple hrs work and hope it's the issue for him. I'll get back once he's done it.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #13
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    I presume you are aware that the FPR's metal gaskets are not reusable at all, once removed it will never seal well no matter how much sealant you use and even if it doesnt leak around the internal flow is mixed up
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  4. #14
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    Don't the Td5 and Ford Barra share a common FPR?
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    if it's shut down and restarted in short time, it starts no worries. Short time = anywhere withing about 10-15 min range ... give or take and approximately. He's never really measured, just done it.
    So in that sense, yeah, she starts no worries if restarted soon after shut down.
    Again without actually measuring, just a rough figure, eg. 10-30mins ... maybe 15-30 min range ... or whatever beyond the shorter time period being off ... no, she needs the ign on and wait a few seconds for fuel to prime back up.

    Last time I was down there, I had ign on for about 20 sec, and hit starter and it started with maybe 5 sec of cranking, but then died maybe 10 sec later.
    Went to start it again but then nephew took over and used hand to keep a bit of revs up. I didn't notice(or really pay attention too) the any white smoke that he later told me about, but if it was, was very minimal as it wasn't 'bleeding obvious'.

    What I'm thinking of doing is using a couple of quick connects onto fuel hose with a pressure sensor (eg. electronic VDO style) to intercept the the quick connect inlet hose and a gauge to keep an eye on fuel pressure..

    Hes seen the 'difficulty' of doing the FPR, but as I recall(having done twice) the only difficult part(if you dont' remove the inlet manifold) is having two hands in there whilst trying to hold bolts that fall out gasket that is impossible to get a hand or finger too and zip up the bolts ensuring the gasket is correctly seated.
    Actually getting to the individual parts is OK ... so if using the rubber band method to hold bolts and gasket is used, shouldn't be too too hard .. just "annoyingly not made easier"

    ps. considering he's into breaking BMWs ... LR is easy peasy by comparison!

    IIR rightly, the britpart gauze filter oring was a stubby fat thingy, just shy of the correct size of the recess(half a mm or so) as FPR was fitted with head on bench, and seeing that it would compress well being such a thick cross section, I(we) assumed it would seal..
    This is why I(we) think if there is some fitting anomaly with the gauze filter this could be it.
    I've had a look at the FPR and head here in my shed, and I can sort of see it, but still don't make sense .. if the oring is just plain leaking due to wrong size, it just leaks into the inlet and temp sensor port .. so really no reason for any loss of pressure.

    BUT! If the added thickness of the oring(which it was compared to the old one) doesn't let the FPR seat absolutely correctly, the very think strip of the gasket could be comprimised between inlet/sensor port and the return port.

    I had a quick look at discovery2.co.uk and his images re FPR and for sure the britpart o ring sat a lot more proud of the head surface.
    I guess this is why I question the gauze oring .. if it is leaking back into the inlet port, question is it must be important to have a seal there, otherwise why have it in the first place. To me it kind'a doesn't make sense. The gasket 'seals' the inlet/sensor port area anyhow with it's raised seal section .. so why is the gauze filter really there.

    Anyhow, this may be the plan for this Monday(I think). As long as he can get his hands on oring and gasket. a couple hrs work and hope it's the issue for him. I'll get back once he's done it.
    Jeez Arthur, I'm thinking you maybe just enjoy the faffing about.

    Even if I did have the time, I reckon I'd rather spend it doing something else.





    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Don't the Td5 and Ford Barra share a common FPR?
    Yep, along with VW's Audi and a couple more Bosch part number: 0 280 160 575

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    I presume you are aware that the FPR's metal gaskets are not reusable at all, once removed it will never seal well no matter how much sealant you use and even if it doesnt leak around the internal flow is mixed up
    Yep. thats not in question.
    What I can't get my head around tho is the oring. It kind'a doesn't seem to be doing anything. That is, it seems to seal the gauze filter and the inlet head in the port, but really only from the inlet port istelf, which is about 20-ish mm sq and has the temp sensor in it too.

    My very vague memory of bolting the fuel block back on was that the oring stood out much more than what disco2.co.uk shows in his photo.

    And, for sure I like faffing about ... I reckon the major reason for my will to live.
    Two more weeks to go, and old residence is gone, and my finances will allow a whole lott'a'faffing to come
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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