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Thread: Trans cooler connector woes

  1. #1
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    Trans cooler connector woes

    Recently replaced the radiator in my TD5, no biggie but in the process the barb on the old trans cooler split and started leaking.

    So I have replaced the trans cooler with an aftermarket one: Transmission Oil Cooler suitable for Discovery 2 Td5 Diesel Automatic

    I managed to get the high pressure side to clip back on (It seems on at least)

    But no matter what I cannot get the return line to clip on, I have fully cleaned up the push fitting and it all moves smoothly and freely. It just will not clip on.
    I can get it to clip on to the old cooler though.

    Is this likely just because it's new or has anyone else had bad experiences with these aftermarket coolers?

  2. #2
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    My feeling are that those lines are single connection only. Once disturbed they become prone to coming off sometime down the track.

    I'd replace it.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Once disturbed they become prone to coming off sometime down the track.

    I'd replace it.
    Yes. You'd be amazed at how quickly you can purge the trans of all its fluid, and the ensuing mess is biblical. Not to mention the potential damage to the trans.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Yes. You'd be amazed at how quickly you can purge the trans of all its fluid, and the ensuing mess is biblical. Not to mention the potential damage to the trans.
    Absolutely! I've done that a few times! Despite what other transmissions run, I'd always recommend these ones have proper high pressure fittings too - none of these hose clamp jobs.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  5. #5
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    OK might have to bite the bullet and get new ones.

    UBP101601 and UBP101610 correct?

  6. #6
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    Might pay to measure diameter of pipes.

    Weird that it fits on old one but new one. I'd say diameter issue
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  7. #7
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    Thanks everyone for your help, naturally you were right.

    I did manage to get it on, and it did manage to pop off the second it got up to highway speeds.

    New lines on the way $$$

    Bright side is underbody is now thoroughly rust protected.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCOA View Post
    Thanks everyone for your help, naturally you were right.

    I did manage to get it on, and it did manage to pop off the second it got up to highway speeds.

    New lines on the way $$$

    Bright side is underbody is now thoroughly rust protected.
    The Disco2 seems to run abnormally high ATF pressures when compared to other auto transmissions, which is why the majority of ATF coolers and fittings don't work with them. It probably popped off on the highway because when the torque converter is locked up the line pressure goes high. Sadly new lines needed, I was suprised at how much they cost now on your link.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Absolutely! I've done that a few times! Despite what other transmissions run, I'd always recommend these ones have proper high pressure fittings too - none of these hose clamp jobs.
    I got Pirtek to make new lines and ditched the quick connect. Had too many hassles.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    I got Pirtek to make new lines and ditched the quick connect. Had too many hassles.
    it's weird reading comments like that from my perspective.

    Every time I've had to deal with the quick connects, always a massive headache in them being immovable. The release moves, and the plug moves, but not both at the same time, and it's usually a lot of expletives and gorilla tactics that does it in the end.

    Had to do again on nephews upcoming D2a, just a few days ago, and all we ended up doing was stressing the crimps to the point of leakage .. so had to then work to get that side fixed.
    he did good, got a hydraulic crimp tool, had the correct die, crimped the lazily crimped bodge job that came loose whilst gorilla me trying to remove the quick connect .. crimp no longer leaking.

    When mine let go a couple years back, hose came off at the crimp, but the quick connect was a hard nut to get off the pipe. In the end I gave up and pulled the rad again(I think I've already said it's one my most hated jobs on a D2) and used a spare cooler I had.

    But back to the OPs issue. I'm worried(for him) that new lines may not resolve the non connecting old pipes on the new cooler.
    Strange that it connects to the old cooler, but not the new cooler. From that description, I'd have been sus on the cooler.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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