Thread: D2 Power Steering Pump replacement: Td5 different to V8

I'm a long time lurker with a 2000 D2 Td5. Have just replaced the power steering pump after having watched various videos and reading different articles. Some information out there is unclear, unnecessary or wrong with regard to the Td5. In the case of videos in particular, some people seem to be doing this for the first time without much idea of what is required. There is an excellent video by British and Atlantic (that I tried to follow), but this is for the V8. It lead me in the wrong direction. The Td5 is different and simpler. This post is not a detailed explanation, but simply a pointer to non-expert Td5 owners to head them in the right direction. Key points are:

• PSP replacement in the Td5 is different to and much simpler than for a V8 (so don't follow V8 videos).
• For Td5, it is not necessary to remove the AC pump, air induction, radiator hoses (I did by following wrong videos).
• DO NOT remove the large aluminium bracket that the AC pump and PS pump bolt to (needs to be removed for V8 according to B Atlantic). It is not necessary for the Td5 and, importantly, for the Td5 this big aluminium bracket houses the water pump. If this large bracket is removed, the coolant duct from the block to the coolant pump is opened up - meaning coolant spills everywhere and will need to be resealed.
• For Td5, the PS Pump is held in place by 4 bolts (10mm spanner) accessible from the front once the PS pulley is removed. A 5th bolt at the centre top holds the PS pump to a 3mm-ish thick steel positioning place that sits between the PSP and the big aluminum bracket. It can be removed then or later. Remove these bolts after disconnecting the two fluid lines as described below.

Here is a summary of steps (non-ACE model). See other posts from people more expert than me for further details.
Removal

1. Remove fan shroud
2. Remove fan - see below
3. Loosen 3 bolts holding PSP pulley (do this before removing the belt)
4. Remove belt - noting routing (use 15mm socket on tensioner)
5. Remove loosened PSP pulley
6. To the extent possible, remove PS fluid from reservoir
7. Put dish under the car to catch fluid
8. Disconnect the gravity feed 'return hose' from the reservoir - do not disconnect this hose from the actual pump at this stage (easier to do this later). The return hose is the front hose connected to the reservoir. It returns fluid in the reservoir to the pump. Do not disconnect the back hose to the reservoir - it stays in place.
9. Unscrew the pump pressure pipe from the PS Pump. (This pipe goes forward into the radiator area and carries fluid under pressure to the PS unit.)
10. Remove the 4 (or 5) bolts described above holding the PSP in place
11. Remove unit
12. Disconnect 'return hose' from PSP once off the vehicle

Installation
Pretty much reverse of above. A couple of tips:

1. Connect 'return hose' to the new PSP before installing the pump
2. A steel alignment plate sits between the PSP and the large aluminium bracket. Loosely bolt the PSP to the plate via the 5th bolt (top middle)
3. The PSP connects with and drives the coolant pump via dogs on the PSP. Align the dogs with the slots in the coolant pump (might need to turn pump until it slots in)
4. Insert and loosely tighten the long bottom bolts in first. It's easier to align everything if these go in first
5. Make sure the steel plate is flush with the bracket and PSP before tightening. This is to ensure that the PSP dogs are seated in the water pump slots
6. Remember to tighten the PSP pully once the belt is on

Fan Removal
Removing the fan can be tricky if too tight. The 36mm nut needs to be screwed in the direction of fan travel. Ideally this requires both a thin 36mm open ended spanner and a special holder to stop the fan pulley spinning. I had a 36mm spanner but not a holder. The pulley spun when I tried to unscrew the nut, even by tapping. I then tried a Youtube tip that worked - put the spanner on the nut and apply unscrewing pressure until just before the pully spins. With a hammer, tap the top/far end of the spanner in the direction towards the nut. To be clear, you will be tapping the spanner directly down on the nut, not sideways. In effect, you will be using the spanner as an impact tool. If too tight, this might not work for you but it's worth a shot.

I hope this helps and I've not made too many errors.
Alan

oh man having a mare of a time trying to get everything to line up!!

love the over extend of the lower back necessarry haha, woke up so stiff and hadnt succeeded so definitly not worth it

was thinking about it as i went to sleep , will try with the big bottom bolts fed throught the pump and hopefully can get them seated and everything else will.. align

update - sussed, definitly get the bottom bolts seated first, then had to manouever the pump slightly up and left so the bracket and bolt hole would align so i could get the top left bolt seated , which led to the bracket and hole being aligned on the right hand side. glad thats sorted! not to get everything back on and bleed it up

question, can the system be bled just by turning the wheel back and forth with the reservoir cap off and engine running? have read some people have success with this and some have to open the bleed nipple on the box