Reply With QuoteI think you only ever use 3 hoses.
2 of the hoses always get used, 3 and 4 get interchanged depending on whether the car has ace or not.
Fossicker
Supporterive got ace also and only got three hoses from allisport, cant see where a 4th would go?
Originally Posted by shack
ChatterBox
SupporterI think you only ever use 3 hoses.
2 of the hoses always get used, 3 and 4 get interchanged depending on whether the car has ace or not.
Super Moderator
After confirming the w/g was operating freely I roughly reassembled the car, so
I could go to the big smoke for new hardware to bolt the heat shield on properly.
I had to lengthen the actuation rod 12~14 mm, to reconnect. It has not been adjusted since reassembly.
It is definitely running better and revving freely, in comparison to the earlier, short rod. From (a somewhat dodgy) memory, there should be 8 +/- threads exposed, correct? Is the count from the adjuster or locknut?
I'm not claiming victory yet, as everything I've tried thus far has resulted in a slight but temporary improvement.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
ChatterBox
SupporterI think 12 threads was factory.
If you shorten the rod it will make higher boost from around 2000rpm and up.
Super Moderator
I'm wondering if the rod was too short, overboosting forcing the ECU to cut fuel. To contradict that theory, I never saw boost reach 1 bar and even when running poorly, it ran smoothly but struggled to rev above 3,000.
When the motor has cooled down I'll go and tidy up the heat shield and fiddle with the adjustment.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
ChatterBox
Supporter1.42 bar boost is the factory limit.
It should log a fault if this was reached
Super Moderator
Where does the boost signal come from, the gadget on the other end of the line into the actuator? It has never been replaced in my ownership. Are they still available?
If that dohicky was underreading the boost, obviously giving the Nano a low reading via the ECU, wouldn't that make the car go like a cut snake, or would the ECU starve the motor for fuel?
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
ChatterBox
SupporterBoost is measured in the inlet manifold on the drivers side of the car (AU).
The other thing you may be looking at is the wastegate modulator, it has 3 hoses hooked up to it and a 2 pin electric plug. That blends boost air and ambient air to operate the wastegate as the ECU decides.
ChatterBox
SupporterOn an early (EU2) engine, if it was under reading, the car would be pretty slow, on an EU3 it would go fine as the MAF is used for fuelling, but you would lose correct operation of your turbo and from memory... your EGT protection routines.
YarnMaster
IMO the discussion went all over the place in this long topic and seems that two simple tests i recommended at the beginning(page 2) were missed while i think it's relevant:
1. clamp(or undo and clog) the hose coming from the wastegate modulator to the actuator and go for a ride then, it should go to overboost on first kickdown and if it doesnt the problem is not in the wastegate area but there is low boost for other reason(leak, restriction or fuelling)... for overboost it accelerates well up to around 2500rpm then the ECU cuts the fuelling and logs an overboost fault code...if that doesnt happen everything discussed about the wastegate is futile cos no boost is wastead being low
2. if no overboost a simple check if you can afford some noise where you live would be to undo partially the exhaust downpipe from the turbo as to release some flow there and see how it goes that way cos a quite common issue on facelifts is clogged catalyst then the boost can't rise due to the exhaust's restricted flow
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
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