Is it an auto? You haven’t mentioned the XYZ switch.
Also, I had some strangeness in mine a while back and traced it to some corrosion in the in cabin fusebox. Just a thought.
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						Member
					
					
						SupporterMy 1999 build D2,395000km is presently unwilling to crank. It spasmodically decides to start but won't 5 minutes later. So far, I have - replaced the starter motor, tested and replaced the ignition switch and lead to the inside fuse box, checked continuity from that fuse box to engine bay fuse box, swapped the relay in the engine bay box, checked continuity to the from that relay to the starter, checked the starter earth continuity. The ignition switch functions correctly in all key positions -aux, services and crank. The engine will start with the ignition on and a jumper lead from the starter solenoid to the battery.
I would appreciate pointers to what I may have missed.
Is it an auto? You haven’t mentioned the XYZ switch.
Also, I had some strangeness in mine a while back and traced it to some corrosion in the in cabin fusebox. Just a thought.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I'm thinking dicky solenoid.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
 TopicToaster
					
					
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						TopicToaster
					
					
						Supporterhave you got the original style batter terminal connector?
These can also cause issues. Mine did, and was changed for this exact reason.
The wire gets a bit loose in the "crimped" part of the connector and the fixing cam/nut mechanism gets very vague and doesn't clamp as well as it should.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Some live troubleshooting is needed: you must see when it refuses to crank if the starter relay is engaging or not, if it does there is a bad contact in that fusebox or in the associated connector,(provided the lucar connector to the starter solenoid terminal is well connected) if the relay doesnt engage when you turn the ignition to crank the problem can be in the interior fusebox too(they used to suffer from corrosion)
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
They still do, although mine, amongst other things, caused it to crank in ignition position II, which was fun.
It doesn't take much, and can cause all manner of weirdness:
IMG_5875.jpgIMG_5877.jpgIMG_5876.jpg
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
 Member
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Member
					
					
						SupporterThanks to all for the guidance.
I haven't lifted the engine bay fuse box but will as the last throw to achieving normality. In desperation I have installed a push-button switch in a direct wire from battery to starter relay terminal. With key at position2, excellent starting, but still no start by key at cranking position 3. It never rains but it pours- with the switch operating the engine would start and run 10 seconds only. After some inspiring reading in the notes to my Black Box Solutions Faultmate MSV 2 analyzer I checked the door locking action, no joy, then I noticed the red light in the key was not present. Replaced the battery in the key and engine runs continuously.
Now it's clear, it was an immobiliser issue
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
And thanks to the OP for coming back and letting us know.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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