Also: I need to drive it to somewhere suitable to repair it; can I remove the rear drive shafts (not tail shaft) and drive it w CDL engaged?
Happy New Year All
As you can see, diff components in my axel tried to check out….
2004 D2 with 430k +kms so think I’m going to get a 2nd hand axel, disc to disc and swap it.
I’ll do pinion seal, check axle seals and replace shocks (one is leaking)
Anything else I need to consider?
Is it good to get rid of the donut or keep it?
Also: I need to drive it to somewhere suitable to repair it; can I remove the rear drive shafts (not tail shaft) and drive it w CDL engaged?
I'm not sure if there were meant to be photos attached, there isn't.
Depending what's gone wrong, that may work, but the diff will still turn.
If the the diff is damaged and not turning, then you will need to remove the axle/half shafts and the tail shaft.
I'm not familiar with the D2, but the D1 the drive flange is part of the axle/half shaft, so when the axle/half shaft is removed oil will spill out the stub axle, and dirt will get in the wheel bearings.
Defenders have separate drive flanges that you can put back on after removing the axle/half shaft.
If bits of diff have punched a hole in the housing then there won't be much oil to spill, and if your going to fit a new assembly complete, then dirt in the wheel bearings won't matter for a short distance.
Tony
A disco2 hub is not the same setup as most other classic LandRovers, it isn't a full floating setup and you cant pull the axles and still retain the hub (which holds the wheel on).
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
I'm pretty sure you can.
I got a parts junker out back with exactly this setup. Axles pulled years ago, diffs out to have ATBs fitted(and installed on D1) but this got put on the back burner.
Obviously it's a junker, has no brakes axles diffs .,. zip underneath excpe that hubs back on to move(towed) it from here to there.. ie. around the yard when needed moved and on and off trailer.
I can't see why you couldn't pull axles and drive it, other than leaking all the diff oil out.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
You'd be putting a huge amount of faith in a press fitted hub, the factory don't have that faith. The flange on the half shaft keeps the bearing and hub retained.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
to be sure, I wasn't questioning, I was raising the question.
I can't remember the retaining setup, other than the 4 bolts for the hub.
I reemember the front axle needs the seals to hold diff oil, but the rears (IRRC) only had the outer ring seal(o ring).
Can't remember how the whole assembly is 'fully' retained.
I just had to get the shafts out to remove diffs, which was all I needed. And instead of putting axles back in, they're kept as spares in the back of the D2 bomb.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Alls good. Its just quite deceptive on how the hub assembly presents because the flange and the bearing all come together as one piece. It quite reasonably looks like you can unbolt the axle, remove the bearing/flange assembly, remove the axle and then reinstall the bearing/flange assembly. When you buy them, the flange and bearing all looks like one solid piece as per below and it wouldn't surprise me if you could push it around the yard like that if the press fit was tight enough.
D2 hub.JPG
In LandRovers technical drawings, you can see that the flange and the bearing are 2 seperate parts, with the flange pressed into the bearing. I assume its a combination of this and the ABS sensor which is why they all come assembled.
These exploded and section drawings show the role of the axle in holding it all together.
D2_rear_hub_assembly.JPG
D2 hub RAVE.JPG
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Just one of the very few and minor differences between the D1 and D2.....![]()
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Well I've learnt something. I knew the front was different to D1 RRC Defender, but I had assumed (dangerous I know) the rear was the same
But why? I'm not seeing any upside to this? Easier assembly in the factory?
Thanks to all, and I hope Colmoore gets it sorted.
Tony
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