sierrafery will be along soon. He knows these things.
Hi all. D2a driver's door lock actuator servo that connects to the physical door 'button' is not working.
My son's vehicle. He bought a second hand known good door actuator in a wrecked door. In his vehicle the replacement actuator has the same issue. I think therefore it must be voltage loss. The other servo motor in the door lock actuator works fine on the orignal unit and the replacement unit. Perhaps a corroded connector at the BCU is the issue (or pinched wire somehwere in the loom, like where it runs into the cabin frim the door). All other doors working fine and fuse is good. He is looking up wiring diagram to see which pins are for the servo motor in question as the actuator unit has 7 pins in total for the 2 servos. Any tips appreciated. Cheers
sierrafery will be along soon. He knows these things.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Hi, just confirm the lock/unlock motor is not working while the superlock motor does? ...if it's so the problem is with the circuit to the actuator's connector pin 4 cos to pin 7 goes the common wire for both motors which if the other motor works means it's OK... continuity checks are needed: between pin 4 and C0733 pin 5 and if there is continuity then check from C0582 pin 2 to 0733 - 5 if there is continuity all the way the problem is within the fusebox(they used to suffer from corrosion)
PS.. be aware that at the door connector pin 4 and at C0733 pin 5 should be KR(pink/red) wire like at 0582-2 at the fusebox but there are cases when it's orange then at 0733 one side will be KR the other orange
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
Hi mate. Yes superlocking servo is working but not lock/unlock. Many thanks i will check this out. If there is corrosion at the fuse box he can try to clean it and otherwise try a replacement fuse box. If he needs a replacement fuse box would he need a Nanacom to enable the new fuse box to play nicely or is it a straight swap? Cheers
The fusebox must come from same modell(facelift or not), disconnect battery before the swap(do not unplug/plug that fusebox with battery connected) then after the swap and battery reconnection turn ignition to second position and let it so for 5 minutes(dont crank it at that stage, the red immobiliser LED might be on for a while, neglect it), after 5 minutes ignition off/on and he can crank it...that's the procedure to resynk the IDM with the BCU, nanocom is not needed.
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
It doesn't take much corrosion in the fusebox to cause all manner of weirdness ( I have a thread on here somewhere ). I was able to merely clean mine up using appropriate electronic cleaners.
IMG_5875.jpgIMG_5876.jpgIMG_5878.jpg
Yes, it only took that much. I thought my BCM was probably dead due to the number of issues, which continued to get worse. The fusebox is actually quite easy to remove and open. Hopefully this is all that's wrong for you. Good luck.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Thanks gents. After further testing it became clear that the replacement unit was good but my son's installation of the arm for the door handle had needed some more adjustment (it was binding on the inner door skin) so all sorted now. I was hoping it was mechanical because this vehicle has never had a leak and we couldn't see any water ingress telltales anywhere which is a plus. Cheers
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