Thread: Bloody 4 Amigos! Front left

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Unplug the front left sensor and watch the inpus then... if nothing changes from what you see now on the screen that one is the problem but if the front left goes to zero unplugged the problem is with the rear right and it means that nanocom mixed up the code(which is not uncommon as i told you in post #2) ... usually the inputs are correct so IMO the rear right it is

in which menu didnt you find the floppy disc icon? if it's about the fault code section there is no recording for that, only for live inputs

Bingo, disconnected front left ABS and no change to the inputs. The problem is with the front left. YAY!!

I need to check connector 0505 pins 1 and 2. They connect to the front Left ABS.

It is a new hub, and a newer ABS, I'll laugh if it is a loom or ECU problem!

Originally Posted by Bohica

Does the front right go through here? I'd think nit, but you never know.

Checking pins 3 - 4 I should get a circuit, with a small resistance.?

Only the rear sensors are going through that grey connector, the fronts are hardwired to the plugs but this

Bingo, disconnected front left ABS and no change to the inputs. The problem is with the front left. YAY!!

I need to check connector 0505 pins 1 and 2. They connect to the front Left ABS.

is very odd cos as i said the inputs should be correct not the fault code...unplug the rear right too and see inputs then and if no change the problem is definitely the SLABS ECU so don;t waste money for sensors or hubs

BTW, measuring across the sensor's circuits unplugged at the ECU you should get between 950 - 1100 Ohm, if you get that value for all it's another evidence of ECU fault

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Only the rear sensors are going through that grey connector, the fronts are hardwired to the plugs but this
is very odd cos as i said the inputs should be correct not the fault code...unplug the rear right too and see inputs then and if no change the problem is definitely the SLABS ECU so don;t waste money for sensors or hubs

BTW, measuring across the sensor's circuits unplugged at the ECU you should get between 950 - 1100 Ohm, if you get that value for all it's another evidence of ECU fault

Many thanks, this is doing my head in.

Inputs correct error code wrong, back to the rear hub, but unplugging the front left did not change the inputs, maybe be it is the ECU.
The logged data shows the front left with no change, a steady 1.7 units unknown. Even when the ABS is unplugged. It stays the same.
What does the first det show? counts per second from the reluctor ring?

Well the right rear ABS has a resistance of 1.047 Ohms, but U could be reading the meter wrong. maybe 1047 Ohms. The front right is an open circuit. The new hub has failed.

It seems that on my Nanocom, the inputs are front left and right rear reversed, just looking at the screen on the Nanocom, and the faults are correct. But the data logging shows the correct situation.
What a pain in the arse!
I think it is new hub time.

ABS2.CSV

This is the latest, with the front left ABS plugged in and then front left ABS unplugged.

I changed the hub. I had one under the desk. Fault has cleared and so far has stayed cleared.
It seems I have a unique Nanocom that gives the correct hub fault and the reversed input screen and correct data loggng.

Based on that log the ECU is very suspect to me

Bugger, in that case, I'll have to wait and see. Yet the replaced hub had an open circuit on the ABS sensor. so it was the hub!

Originally Posted by Bohica

Bugger, in that case, I'll have to wait and see. Yet the replaced hub had an open circuit on the ABS sensor. so it was the hub!

Wouldn't be the 'hub' per se.
The new sensor would be in doubt, but could also be the cable, not the sensor.

Do you have a sensor/cable off an old hub you could try for that one?

Originally Posted by Bohica

Bugger, in that case, I'll have to wait and see. Yet the replaced hub had an open circuit on the ABS sensor. so it was the hub!

Measure resistance in the sensor's plug before you fit it then in the ECU's plug to make sure the circuit is not interrupted, actually it would be good to measure them all then watch the inputs with all unplugged and plug back one at a time to see exactly which one is on nanocom's screen cos that data log is a mess

I have had a refund on the hub. Which is nice. I've driven 60 odd km and no errors. I even put the glove box and trim back.