Has anyone replaced the fuel line between the cooler and filter? Is it straight forward or does it take a circuitous or difficult route?
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Has anyone replaced the fuel line between the cooler and filter? Is it straight forward or does it take a circuitous or difficult route?
the route is pretty straight forwards but it takes some careful threading. cap and tape the ends then tape a pull through from the old line to the new line thats long enough to let you get the complete old line out before you use it to apply guidance effort to the new line.
watch the support clips.
That return line, including the shorty from fuel pressure regulator housing to fuel cooler, are only at the same psi as the low pressure part of the fuel pump, from 1 to 2 bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Ian
You can use 'normal' efi rated fuel line and efi rated little hose clamps to make up the return line instead of the stiffer nylon line. Just clamp directly to your quick connect fittings.
If you're using a donor fuel line a looksee underneath b4 you start and all is pretty straightforward.
Further investigation reveals that line is not a problem, thank goodness. It's hard enough putting a new barb in the fuel pump end of the line.
Yeah, those nylon lines are a pain. Did you use either a heat gun or boiling water container. Problem with water is you then get water in the line, so need to go through the rigamarole of blowing through from the other end.Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Ian
heat gun with attachment that curls back by 180° on itself makes it super easy. Also good for heatshrink and nylon irrigation fittings too! [biggrin]
They go on cold using a silicon gun as the 'pusher', I used to clamp the nylon line with the plumbers gadget you use to put flares in the copper pipes with just enough length protruding to go over the barbs of the quick connector.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
But I went and bought the kit with gun and fittings a few years ago as it's got the attachments for right angle and 45 degree connectors.
They're push on connections to a barb that threads on, those pics are super low res (admittedly that might be my issue). They're formed plastic line, from memory they're not unreasonable for the short ones. the long ones to the engine are $$$. If you wanted to be tight you can get the connectors and make them up with flexible hose.
Still chasing this issue, the car hasn't run since February.
Recap:
I've been chasing a lack of power issue for a long time.
Replaced MAF, MAP, FPR.
Ensured wastegate is free.
Replaced I/C hoses.
To do list further to the problem.
Cat delete.
Whilst trying to work through the list with a broken Nanocom, the car lost power on a steep up grade. It ground to a stop, investigation revealed the fuel filter to cooler line had blown off at the cooler end. The hose was replaced with a clamp. Attempting to bleed the system, the pump died.
New pump and filter fitted and further attempts at bleeding found a new fuel leak at the other end of the previously leaking line.
All leaks fixed and I'm still struggling to bleed the fuel, I think.
I have run through the five pump method dozens of times. I have left the ignition on for half an hour, a few times. I have tried a sniff of ether, I have tried blowing warm air into the air intake and a combination of the last two.
The car steadfastly refuses to fire.
It would be a remarkable coincidence to have another fault that is stopping the car starting, all i can think of is CPS.
I have been reliably advised that there is a mesh filter in the cooler, worth checking. Any further, precise info appreciated.
CPS?
CPS, crank position sensor..... if when turning the vehicle over with starter the rev counter moves then CPS should be fine i.e. creating a signal....worth checking the wiring to the sensor as they can break...
Mesh filter is behind the FPR. Are you getting any smoke when turning it over?
Good luck.