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I would definitely avoid the first option.
Reason I mentioned the Jag one is because it was all I could get from a disco and jag wrecker on a Sunday. I had to play games with the plug but it got the car going. The original one was bolted inside the bell housing [bigsad]
Part number for the plug is YPC10070. Pretty common plug as it happens.
Not good news update. CPS replaced, wiring in good nick.
I have no reading on the tacho, but a scan tool is detecting 350rpm cranking. The injectors are opening.
In the past couple of months, while the car has been sitting, it has developed a couple of coolant leaks, one from the bottom hose, the other from an indeterminate location half way up the lhs of the engine.
My thoughts are, timing jumped a tooth or head gasket (optimistically hoping for nothing worse), although I feel the latter would not prevent starting. It sounds no different when cranking, as to prior to the breakdown.
Questions:
How to do a compression test, 4x glow plugs, or 5x injectors?
Is it possible, or reasonable to consider, a jumped tooth?
The engine won't even fire with ether sprayed directly into the inlet manifold.
In your 'chasing a lack of power' for a while before the blown fuel line have you replaced the injector washers and seals.... before going to the trouble of compression test I'd replace the washers and seals. I do mine as a service item.
The washers can get scored and the cylinder compression could leak up the sides of the injector to the fuel rails, approx 20 bar of compreesion stroke could easily overcome the 4bar from the FPR. May have even been why the fuel cooler pipe let go.....
It would probably need to be very bad scoring and in the majority of cylinders to prevent starting... your getting some white smoke on turnover so some fuel is making through.
While in there check, replace the harness (should be service item) and check timing marks.... however with a chain I doubt its slipped a cog, unless there's a catastrophic failure in there..... then you problems are only just starting..... excuse the pun.
Again good luck.
DiscofenderAttachment 193463
Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Ian
Yes, the tacho isn't a reliable indicator of a working CPS, but as long as the scan tool shows it.
You say the injectors are opening, have you done a solenoid click test with the scan tool?
Coolant leak on LHS of engine, look at water pump, bracket to block O ring, oil cooler outlet hose, or screw in core plug on the head between exhaust ports 3 and 4.
Seeing that fuel lines have been played with, check the main inlet from tank comes into the top fitting on the FPR.
If that checks out, then off with the cam cover and check cam timing, if that's good then replace injector washers as mentioned, making sure whoever does the job is clean and thorough.
You can always put it on the back of a load and drop it off here on your next job to W.A. if all else fails.
From the sparkie:
Plugged diagnostic into vehicle
Confirmed there is crank signal present on computer
Actuated injectors, all clicking
Black smoke from exhaust, vehicle is injecting fuel
No coolant in system, two leaks
Unable to start vehicle by spraying starter fluid directly into intake manifold
Relative compression test performed, wildly different values for all cylinders with consistent cranking speed
Suggested compression test as head gasket or timing may be preventing start.
Wildly different values on the "relative comp test" could also indicate a non shielded (from the starter motor) CPS circuit, or an aftermarket or Ill fitted CPS.Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Ian
An experienced ear would be able to pick if there are very large discrepancies in compression from cranking.
I'm going to take a punt on injector washers, I think.
Is it worth changing the injector harness? There are no indications of failure and no oil at the computer end of the plug.
I was also thinking of cleaning the head side of where the copper washer sits, with Scotchbrite, glued to an appropriately sized dowel. Smart or stupid?
The tappet cover gasket is leaking still/again. I had it changed by someone I thought was competent but it leaked worse than before he changed it. I was thinking of reusing it with aircraft grade form-a-gasket, that I have, or should i buy another new one?
I would have thought that if it's been tested with the diagnostic to confirm injectors are clicking, then harness shouldn't be an issue.
I re-read the thread and didn't see any mention of fuel pressure test.
Has the fuel pressure been checked?
You said that the FPR was done not long before. By who? experienced? did they use the correct gasket? ... etc.
From my recollection of FPR in kits, they usually come with two gaskets. one earlier type and one later type. If thats the case for you, did whoever fit the FPR use the right one. IIRC you have a D2a, so should be the EU3 type.
Another thing to be mindful of is the o-ring for the gauze fuel filter in the head. Not an obvious one to see and do either.
If a generic o-ring is used, can cause problems too.
So whilst the car was underpowered, it still ran ok?
How long was the incline you were on when the fuel line let go?
I E. Were you at full power for some time while going up the incline?
