Thread: Disco2 TD5 Upgrades questions

Hi John, welcome onboard.

What you decide to do will basically depend on how much you want/can spend.

A remap is probably a good idea of you want a few more beans, not sure the dual map setup is really worth it myself.

Any NNN auto ECU can be used, but it's a LOT cheaper to use an MSB.

After that, it gets a little bit personal choice.

The intercooler vs turbo upgrade is an interesting one, the old inefficient turbo is the primary cause of the heat that the intercooler needs to dissipate, however as yours is an EU2, it probably has the old smaller intercooler, so an intercooler upgrade is not a bad idea, as to who to use I don't know, maybe not many bolt in options besides allisport.

Then it's flip a coin between turbo and auto upgrade.

The torque converter upgrade to a V8 one is probably a no brainer.

If money is no object, I'd upgrade the internals to 4hp24.

A VGT is the best choice for turbo upgrades, I've got a few of them tuned in pretty well now.

Other than that ... If you have the funds, go for it!

Originally Posted by Adran

Hi all,

I'm looking to get some upgrades done to my 99 d2 td5 10p(EU2) auto box over the coming months (mainly after tax time and had a few questions after lurking and reading other threads here.

So far it has had the head reconditioned and the EGR delete done. I'll be replacing the silencer in the next week or two when I get paid next.

Which brings me to my upgrade path and questions;

I'm looking at getting a NNN ecu with the dual map from td5inside. After reading the forums I have a couple of questions with this.

1) Do I need to ask for a EU2 NNN or can I get any auto NNN ecu and just ask for the EU2 base map?

2) I've read on the site that it can be switched anytime, does this mean while the car is running or does it need to be turned off first?

3) After the NNN, I'm then looking at upgrading the coolers, is allisport still the recommended for drop in replacement for the trans oil cooler, intercooler and radiator?

4) after all that is it recommended for the turbo upgrade or working on the transmission/drive train so heavy duty flex plate/torque converter and trans service/rebuild?

Thanks in advance

- John

First you buy a Nanocom and cable to suit your vehicle or find someone who has one and will help until you get your own. You really should get your own.

1) You need to get an auto NNN ecu and yes it is then programmed with td5inside EU2 map (or any tuners map), or if you want get the NNN unit and put in a stock EU2 map to test the ecu in your vehicle while waiting for the tuned map.

2) all the vids I have seen it is switched while running

3) save your money for now, maybe upgrade to a used intercooler from a facelift model that is about it

4) I put an ashcroft flex plate kit in mine and sourced the V8 torque converter locally. Trans had over 400,000 on it and I changed the front and back seals and never cracked it open.

Originally Posted by johnp38

First you buy a Nanocom and cable to suit your vehicle or find someone who has one and will help until you get your own. You really should get your own.

1) You need to get an auto NNN ecu and yes it is then programmed with td5inside EU2 map (or any tuners map), or if you want get the NNN unit and put in a stock EU2 map to test the ecu in your vehicle while waiting for the tuned map.

2) all the vids I have seen it is switched while running

3) save your money for now, maybe upgrade to a used intercooler from a facelift model that is about it

4) I put an ashcroft flex plate kit in mine and sourced the V8 torque converter locally. Trans had over 400,000 on it and I changed the front and back seals and never cracked it open.

Access to a nano isn't an issue, a different mate has one (and 2 disco's XD), it is something I would like in future though


1) So it doesn't matter what NNN it is, as long as it is an auto NN, I just need to specify use a EU2 base map

2) Excellent :3

3) That was another option that crossed my mind

4) Thanks, being on the island down under mean I'll need to ask around :3

Thanks for taking the time to reply

Originally Posted by shack

Hi John, welcome onboard.

What you decide to do will basically depend on how much you want/can spend.

A remap is probably a good idea of you want a few more beans, not sure the dual map setup is really worth it myself.

Any NNN auto ECU can be used, but it's a LOT cheaper to use an MSB.

After that, it gets a little bit personal choice.

The intercooler vs turbo upgrade is an interesting one, the old inefficient turbo is the primary cause of the heat that the intercooler needs to dissipate, however as yours is an EU2, it probably has the old smaller intercooler, so an intercooler upgrade is not a bad idea, as to who to use I don't know, maybe not many bolt in options besides allisport.

Then it's flip a coin between turbo and auto upgrade.

The torque converter upgrade to a V8 one is probably a no brainer.

If money is no object, I'd upgrade the internals to 4hp24.

A VGT is the best choice for turbo upgrades, I've got a few of them tuned in pretty well now.

Other than that ... If you have the funds, go for it!

Was thinking of the dual map for having an eco tune for my daily driving too and from work then the power for when I needed to get up hills or overtake the slower drivers here without having to wait 15 seconds to gain speed

I was thinking when I do the coolers, to do Intercooler, Trans Oil Cooler and Radiator all at once just to make my life easier

From there it sounds The torque converter and flex plate are next.

I read earlier that some lux's had vgt/vnt turbos? are they just straight swap?

Thanks for taking the time to reply

I actually changed my injectors to green tops (eu3), the airbox lid to 4 pin aap sensor (and ran extra wire back to ecu, as well as leaving 3 pin plug in place) and swapped the accelerator pedal for 3 track (and again ran extra wire back to ecu)

I have an NNN ecu and run the EU3 tune as I feel seat of the pants smoothness much better, also running EU3 tune with EU2 (black tops) injectors the idle didn't feel right even using the closest injector codes to match EU3 expectations. I've developed a very sensitive seat of the pants diagnostic ability as this POS keeps screwing me up the arse at every opportunity.

Leaving the dual aap sensor plugs/wiring in place was so I could switch air box lids when playing between EU2 and EU3 tunes rather that altering the parameters in the tune to suit the lid.

I would get a V8 torque converter and kit and fit it then get a tune from shack to suit, I don't see the value in the twin map setup whatsoever. A good tune will be set and forget and just get in the car and drive.

Once you get your NNN you can use map wizard to generate your own EU2 base map so you can swap in the NNN and make sure it is working. A ROW (rest of world) map will have the EGR switched off by default.

If you work out how to hunt down all my posts (I haven't yet!) you will see most of the major stuff I have done to mine since I got it which will give you some food for thought.

Originally Posted by Adran

Was thinking of the dual map for having an eco tune for my daily driving too and from work then the power for when I needed to get up hills or overtake the slower drivers here without having to wait 15 seconds to gain speed

I was thinking when I do the coolers, to do Intercooler, Trans Oil Cooler and Radiator all at once just to make my life easier

From there it sounds The torque converter and flex plate are next.

I read earlier that some lux's had vgt/vnt turbos? are they just straight swap?

Thanks for taking the time to reply

I don't know of anything from another vehicle that's a "straight swap" on the turbo front.

I think the other John has addressed my feelings with regard to a dual tune, sure it can be done, but I don't see the benefit..I just control my power and speed with the throttle.

The main "benefit" of the dual map as far as I can see, is so that owners that live in town and want to have a popcorn limiter (hard cut) linked in with really bad AFR, so they can floor it and get hard cut with rolling coal.

Then others can SEE how much power you have!

I've done a number of S208B jobs, and whilst I won't really recommend anything above something else, they go alright.

EU3 or facelift intercooler is a good upgrade on a limited budget.

Originally Posted by johnp38

I actually changed my injectors to green tops (eu3), the airbox lid to 4 pin aap sensor (and ran extra wire back to ecu, as well as leaving 3 pin plug in place) and swapped the accelerator pedal for 3 track (and again ran extra wire back to ecu)

I have an NNN ecu and run the EU3 tune as I feel seat of the pants smoothness much better, also running EU3 tune with EU2 (black tops) injectors the idle didn't feel right even using the closest injector codes to match EU3 expectations. I've developed a very sensitive seat of the pants diagnostic ability as this POS keeps screwing me up the arse at every opportunity.

Leaving the dual aap sensor plugs/wiring in place was so I could switch air box lids when playing between EU2 and EU3 tunes rather that altering the parameters in the tune to suit the lid.

I would get a V8 torque converter and kit and fit it then get a tune from shack to suit, I don't see the value in the twin map setup whatsoever. A good tune will be set and forget and just get in the car and drive.

Once you get your NNN you can use map wizard to generate your own EU2 base map so you can swap in the NNN and make sure it is working. A ROW (rest of world) map will have the EGR switched off by default.

If you work out how to hunt down all my posts (I haven't yet!) you will see most of the major stuff I have done to mine since I got it which will give you some food for thought.

How hard was it to find and source the parts and make the swap?

Whilst johnp38's mods will work, I should mention that it still won't be an EU3/ 16p motor for a couple of reasons.

The pistons are different between EU2 and EU3 as the combustion chamber was changed to account for the different injector operation, I.E. smaller vs bigger droplets in the injected fuel and the associated change in droplet speed across the chamber.

The second issue, (albeit anecdotally as I haven't checked it...) Is that the injector mounting angle in the head being changed along with this.


This would most likely also be due to the different droplet size and the inability for the fuel to make it across the chamber at the same time as the earlier bigger droplets.

Again, it will work but it won't be like for like and as efficient as an original EU3.

I've done a lot of work with numerous combinations on these engines and I really can't see any benefit in doing it, other than for a giggle and to see if it will work!!

But as I said, Johns mods will work, and it's interesting info from him for everyone.


Edit:

From memory you will also need a different cam, and I believe the timing chain was also beefed up.