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Thread: Wheel Nuts

  1. #1
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    Wheel Nuts

    Something I thought was very simple, getting a set of wheel nuts to suit my new steel wheels on order, is actually seeming to be very difficult. The sets that Dynamic Wheel Co sell, are closed nuts and so I am worried about the length being too short, or too long. The best set I've found (closest to what I think will work) is this - Wheel nut set M14 X 1.5 Black Tapered 45mm Long 22mm 60 Deg suit Toyota 79 Series 20pce "to suit 79 series". I'm assuming this will be fine? is 45mm too short or too long?

    Thanks in advance
    2000 D2 TD5 Auto, Chawton White

  2. #2
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    Those will work very well, I sourced mine off ebay but really pretty much all the same and about the same price. My young bloke runs them on a set of 16" steelies and I run them on some 17" X5 alloys, had no issues of any sort. You can also get security nuts as well if you need them (I haven't bothered) The only down side is I haven't found anyone who will sell just a single set for the spare (not a biggie, just annoying)

    cheers

    Redd
    2003 D2a "The Red Rig" TD5 auto, (number 1 son is now the operator)
    2003 D2a "White Weapon" TD5, auto, 17" BFG's and more to follow
    Almost qualified as a Land Rover operator

  3. #3
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    I don't know all the specs of what you need, but those nuts look OK, except for some small detail issues.

    I checked the length of the stud on the hub, and total length is 33mm, but the first 10mm is shank, then thread length of 23mm.

    So 45mm of length will fit.

    Can't use them on the spare wheel tho. The spare has long thread and the road wheel nuts don't fit the spare wheel lugs. I can't remember the actual length, but 45mm may not be enough without some modding.

    ie. you probably won't be able to use them on the spare.
    So, as the hex on those nuts is 22mm, you will need to keep two sockets on you. One 22mm for the road wheels, and then a 27mm for the spare.

    (alloy) spare wheel nuts on a D2 have a a concave dome dot on them, which signifies that the nut has full thread internally, and only those domed type nuts fit. The road wheel nuts have half thread only. The other nut type are the stoopidly annoying security nuts which have a concave dot on the nut caps. remove the cap and it reveals the security section of the nut.

    std steel LR nuts are only about 30mm long, so about 3mm of thread will be exposed when done up. The outer end of the std steel nut has a groove which allows a large ring to clip onto the end to allow the retension of the std LR plastic cap cover. These plastic covers also fit freelanders.

    My only opinion of the dynamic steel wheel is that they aren't as durable as the LR alloys. I had a set (the round hole style on their webiste) on my D2 and removed them as soon as I found a good set of alloys at a decent price. Two of the dynamics were buckled causing a wobble/vibration through the D2. With alloys fitted, car is much better. I still have those dynamics, but they're only used on the static hulks I have sitting in the yard, just for the purpose of moving them.
    They also weighed a ton compared to the alloys too. Tyres make a difference too, but I saved about 10kg per wheel when fitting the alloys(all 5).
    When you get older, less weight is appreciated, so mounting the (now) alloy spare felt like I got 20 years younger!
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reddirt204 View Post
    Those will work very well, I sourced mine off ebay but really pretty much all the same and about the same price. My young bloke runs them on a set of 16" steelies and I run them on some 17" X5 alloys, had no issues of any sort. You can also get security nuts as well if you need them (I haven't bothered) The only down side is I haven't found anyone who will sell just a single set for the spare (not a biggie, just annoying)

    cheers

    Redd
    That's great, thanks mate!
    2000 D2 TD5 Auto, Chawton White

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I don't know all the specs of what you need, but those nuts look OK, except for some small detail issues.

    I checked the length of the stud on the hub, and total length is 33mm, but the first 10mm is shank, then thread length of 23mm.

    So 45mm of length will fit.

    Can't use them on the spare wheel tho. The spare has long thread and the road wheel nuts don't fit the spare wheel lugs. I can't remember the actual length, but 45mm may not be enough without some modding.

    ie. you probably won't be able to use them on the spare.
    So, as the hex on those nuts is 22mm, you will need to keep two sockets on you. One 22mm for the road wheels, and then a 27mm for the spare.

    (alloy) spare wheel nuts on a D2 have a a concave dome dot on them, which signifies that the nut has full thread internally, and only those domed type nuts fit. The road wheel nuts have half thread only. The other nut type are the stoopidly annoying security nuts which have a concave dot on the nut caps. remove the cap and it reveals the security section of the nut.

    std steel LR nuts are only about 30mm long, so about 3mm of thread will be exposed when done up. The outer end of the std steel nut has a groove which allows a large ring to clip onto the end to allow the retension of the std LR plastic cap cover. These plastic covers also fit freelanders.

    My only opinion of the dynamic steel wheel is that they aren't as durable as the LR alloys. I had a set (the round hole style on their webiste) on my D2 and removed them as soon as I found a good set of alloys at a decent price. Two of the dynamics were buckled causing a wobble/vibration through the D2. With alloys fitted, car is much better. I still have those dynamics, but they're only used on the static hulks I have sitting in the yard, just for the purpose of moving them.
    They also weighed a ton compared to the alloys too. Tyres make a difference too, but I saved about 10kg per wheel when fitting the alloys(all 5).
    When you get older, less weight is appreciated, so mounting the (now) alloy spare felt like I got 20 years younger!
    Much appreciated on the thorough response! I did consider p38 alloys but I liked that the steelies were a wider offset. I may switch to alloys down the track but for now I'll see how they go. So in short, are those nuts ok for the road wheels? I'm happy to run the stock nuts on the spare and just alter it if needed
    2000 D2 TD5 Auto, Chawton White

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by reid25 View Post
    Much appreciated on the thorough response! I did consider p38 alloys but I liked that the steelies were a wider offset. I may switch to alloys down the track but for now I'll see how they go. So in short, are those nuts ok for the road wheels? I'm happy to run the stock nuts on the spare and just alter it if needed
    Yeah, that will work no worries.

    Safe to assume you 'had' alloys?
    If so, just remember the wheel nut type. Plain nuts, ie. no dimple or pimple = std non security road wheel nuts. dimple = security, pimple = spare.
    The spare 'pimpled' nuts can be used as road wheel nuts, just not the other way around.

    When I first got the alloys for the D2, I had a set of wheel nuts that came off the parts hulk. Didn't realise it didn't have the three pimpled nuts for the spare, so when i went to mount the alloy spare, I had to use the steel wheel nuts to mount it.
    But, doing that the taper doesn't sit properly on the spare. The alloys rely more on the flat washer section to fit properly.
    So for a short time, I used some washers between the spare and the spare mount bracket to push the wheel out enough so that the road wheel nuts could thread tightly onto the spare.

    Easy enough to find alloy wheel nuts at wreckers, as it seems that most D2s came with alloys. so one trip to pick-a-part and I had the three pimpled nuts needed for spare.
    And over the years, I seem to notice that the wheels are usually gone from the wrecks at pick-a-part. Wheel nuts being left behind can be hit and miss, many times I'll see them just lying near the car on the ground. But for some reason folks seem to leave the spare wheel nuts behind. spare gone too, but nuts usually found in the back.

    What size tyres will you fit?
    Not sure if you know, but sometimes oversized tyres don't fit easily on the spare. I think 265/70s will just fit, spare may just bind on the bumper. If you fit larger tyres, you know that you can reverse the spare mount to help a larger tyre fit better.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Yeah, that will work no worries.

    Safe to assume you 'had' alloys?
    If so, just remember the wheel nut type. Plain nuts, ie. no dimple or pimple = std non security road wheel nuts. dimple = security, pimple = spare.
    The spare 'pimpled' nuts can be used as road wheel nuts, just not the other way around.

    When I first got the alloys for the D2, I had a set of wheel nuts that came off the parts hulk. Didn't realise it didn't have the three pimpled nuts for the spare, so when i went to mount the alloy spare, I had to use the steel wheel nuts to mount it.
    But, doing that the taper doesn't sit properly on the spare. The alloys rely more on the flat washer section to fit properly.
    So for a short time, I used some washers between the spare and the spare mount bracket to push the wheel out enough so that the road wheel nuts could thread tightly onto the spare.

    Easy enough to find alloy wheel nuts at wreckers, as it seems that most D2s came with alloys. so one trip to pick-a-part and I had the three pimpled nuts needed for spare.
    And over the years, I seem to notice that the wheels are usually gone from the wrecks at pick-a-part. Wheel nuts being left behind can be hit and miss, many times I'll see them just lying near the car on the ground. But for some reason folks seem to leave the spare wheel nuts behind. spare gone too, but nuts usually found in the back.

    What size tyres will you fit?
    Not sure if you know, but sometimes oversized tyres don't fit easily on the spare. I think 265/70s will just fit, spare may just bind on the bumper. If you fit larger tyres, you know that you can reverse the spare mount to help a larger tyre fit better.
    Thanks mate! thats great info. Yep, I had alloys, and I think my spare nuts are the security ones but that sounds like a good solution. I'm fitting 265/75, so will probably reverse the mount.

    Cheers!
    2000 D2 TD5 Auto, Chawton White

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by reid25 View Post
    Thanks mate! thats great info. Yep, I had alloys, and I think my spare nuts are the security ones but that sounds like a good solution. I'm fitting 265/75, so will probably reverse the mount.

    Cheers!
    yeah, tyre will hit the bumper if you don't.
    Keep in mind you will need to either adjust the rest position of the rear wiper, or cut a small notch in the upside-down mount for the wiper to rest in it's normal spot too.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  9. #9
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    Re the spare tire alloy nuts, the hole is the right size to tap them all the way out as an alternative to getting the actual nuts (cost of the tap probably was comparable to getting the right ones but I had lots of the wheels nuts)

  10. #10
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    If you are handy with the welder you can modify the spare carrier rather than inverting it.

    I did this, as turning it moves the spare more to the centre, therefore reducing rear vision.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

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