Thread: D2 front shockers - replacing bushings after 340,000 km's

Originally Posted by Campaspe Man

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One observation this evening is that I can twist/rotate the drag link pretty easily just by holding the bar in my hand. Does this seem right? I can't see any splits in the rubber, but there is definitely plenty of up and down movement. I did the same movement on the 2004 D2, and I could move it, but less. I then tried the donor D2, and no movement at all! (But it is on chocks at the front, under the Watts links - I can't see how that would make a difference, but what would I know).

Thoughts??

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This is normal from under the car doing the check. When new tie rod ends will be tighter and require more force to twist. As they age, this gets easier. If they're a bit old and don't have any movement, I'd worry that they're seized up completely.

if you can grab yourself a lackie!! ... you'll be under the car and they will be inside turning the stg wheel left right in about 1/2 to 1/4 turns continuously and you will be watching for any slack between the trackrod and the steering knuckle arm movements.
That is, watch both drag link and pass side knuckle for movement. If the drag link moves a teeny bit but there is a slight slack/delay in the knuckle arm, then the tie rod is worn. Same for track rod.

You can have easy rotation movement in the tie rod, but its still tight enough between rod and knuckle.

Any slack in the tie rod end is usually felt as a wobble, death wobble, etc. if the steering damper is also worn just get more wobbles.
Steering damper is best taken off and push or pull it to be in it's central extended position. Then push-pull it at that point, only by a few cm, and if that has any slackness or loose play then it's stuffed. Don't need to fully compress/extend it to do this check.

if you require any tie rod end replacements, I've found that not only is the aftermarket heavy duty bars cheaper overall, but they're also more durable ... and more importantly they use all separate tie rod end joints.
The original set up on the D2(D1 is different) IIRC, only two of the tie rod ends are separate items, and the other two are crimped onto the bars.
So that if the crimped tie rods is worn, you can't replace the joint, you got to get the entire bar(ie. more expensive).

I had a set of these 'heavy duty' bars(both) off ebay for under $300. Can't recall the brand, but looks to be Britpart -ish.
had it on car now for a few thousand klms and rod ends still feel good. Only problem with them is the rubber cover can split so quickly on some. Rubber covers are both cheap and easy to source from Repco/SC/auto stores.

Only annoyance I found with installing them is the 'wrong way around config' of the stg damper bracket. The original uses a welded bracket(ie. easy peasy). Aftermarket type commonly found uses a clamped bracket setup. You have to find the centre of the damper and then set it up to clamp the bracket onto the drag link. Problem is when you try to fit the 4 nuts-bolts the bolts are long and the design doesn't allow a lot of arc to tighten the nuts bolts. They take an excruciating long time to tighten down.

I would get a wheel alignment shop to do it. They can also tweak it based on the way your tyres are wearing.

My Audi was really hard on front outer shoulders and I had to drive it so gently with higher pressures not to chop them out. All good now.

My Disco2, it doesn't matter how hard it gets flogged, the tyres always wear evenly.

I don't run 28psi in the front because it generates a lot of push in the front. 30 is marginal, 32 is good without getting harsh. Rears I run 34 to keep it soft. If I'm doing long highway runs (I live rural NSW) then I up them to F36/R38 to make them roll better. I'm on a dirt driveway and we've got loads of potholes too.