Thread: D2 front shockers - replacing bushings after 340,000 km's

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I’m pretty certain Land Rover recommended an unusually low front pressure to increase stability with under steer. The Disco2 rear is pretty hard to control because of the weight on the rear axle and the overhung weight - which is why rear shocks need to be unusually stiff to control it all. A pushy front is a dodge to mask the rear if the rear is not stable. I think its also why they recommend going straight to 40-42psi when towing, to prevent yaw from the trailer push working the tyre carcass laterally - the high pressure makes it feel more stable.

Thanks Slunnie, very interesting to read. I've seen a comment before that the Disco2 is heavy in the rear - so helpful confirmation from you.

I have one D2 with ACE, and one without (the 2004). Does ACE have any impact on this issue at all? Notwithstanding the recent difficulties sorting out the '99 ACE vehicle's tyres, I have always found it incredibly stable on the road.

PS I'm hoping to get the alignment done tomorrow or soon thereafter, so it will be interesting to see what the results are (it's driving very nicely again, so I have to avoid the temptation not to bother with the alignment)!

Myles

Originally Posted by Campaspe Man

Thanks Slunnie, very interesting to read. I've seen a comment before that the Disco2 is heavy in the rear - so helpful confirmation from you.

I have one D2 with ACE, and one without (the 2004). Does ACE have any impact on this issue at all? Notwithstanding the recent difficulties sorting out the '99 ACE vehicle's tyres, I have always found it incredibly stable on the road.

PS I'm hoping to get the alignment done tomorrow or soon thereafter, so it will be interesting to see what the results are (it's driving very nicely again, so I have to avoid the temptation not to bother with the alignment)!

Myles

I haven't read the whole thread, but make sure they aim for 1mm toe out ( and anywhere between 0 and 2 is ok. The torque reaction causes the wheels to want to try and "toe in" when accelerating.
The "toe out" is to offset this.

Originally Posted by discorevy

I haven't read the whole thread, but make sure they aim for 1mm toe out ( and anywhere between 0 and 2 is ok. The torque reaction causes the wheels to want to try and "toe in" when accelerating.
The "toe out" is to offset this.

You read my mind - thank you! I nearly asked this question, but didn't!

Cheers,
Myles

Originally Posted by Campaspe Man

Thanks Slunnie, very interesting to read. I've seen a comment before that the Disco2 is heavy in the rear - so helpful confirmation from you.

I have one D2 with ACE, and one without (the 2004). Does ACE have any impact on this issue at all? Notwithstanding the recent difficulties sorting out the '99 ACE vehicle's tyres, I have always found it incredibly stable on the road.

PS I'm hoping to get the alignment done tomorrow or soon thereafter, so it will be interesting to see what the results are (it's driving very nicely again, so I have to avoid the temptation not to bother with the alignment)!

Myles

I think it wont make much difference, but the ACE will only help, because without body sway you don't get suspension geometry changes. The ACE is perfect with anything up to a 2" lift. The 2" lift funnily enough is only just barely out of LandRover factory suspension tolerances.

You're right though, make sure you bother with the wheel alignment otherwise you're killing what is probably $2000 worth of tyres and it is far less fun if you have to nurse the tyres everywhere to not chop them out. I hope it all goes well.

Just to report back, after all the helpful assistance I've received.

The wheel alignment was done today, and happily I was able to convince the chaps to set the front to a positive toe-out (as has been suggested). Earlier in this thread I described problems with rapid wearing on the inside line of the front tyres, and the need to replace the lower bushes on the front shocks (which I did after having new front tyres fitted, and putting the not-so-old but now unevenly worn front tyres to the rear).

Next step was the alignment. I now have a total toe of +1.1mm, whereas previously I had a total of -4.1 (uneven between left and right). I have to admit I don't understand how it can be uneven, but never mind). Below is the full report. The fella seemed to think the camber is in pretty good shape, and nothing else of major concern.

Any thoughts about the results below? (sorry, tried to rotate the image, but without luck)IMG_1185.jpg


I'm thinking that amount of excessive toe-in is probably responsible for the uneven wear...?

Thanks again,
Myles

Originally Posted by AK83

This is normal from under the car doing the check. When new tie rod ends will be tighter and require more force to twist. As they age, this gets easier. If they're a bit old and don't have any movement, I'd worry that they're seized up completely.

if you can grab yourself a lackie!! ... you'll be under the car and they will be inside turning the stg wheel left right in about 1/2 to 1/4 turns continuously and you will be watching for any slack between the trackrod and the steering knuckle arm movements.
That is, watch both drag link and pass side knuckle for movement. If the drag link moves a teeny bit but there is a slight slack/delay in the knuckle arm, then the tie rod is worn. Same for track rod.

You can have easy rotation movement in the tie rod, but its still tight enough between rod and knuckle.

Any slack in the tie rod end is usually felt as a wobble, death wobble, etc. if the steering damper is also worn just get more wobbles.
Steering damper is best taken off and push or pull it to be in it's central extended position. Then push-pull it at that point, only by a few cm, and if that has any slackness or loose play then it's stuffed. Don't need to fully compress/extend it to do this check.

After having responded to Arthur that neither my lackie nor I could observe in problems, I'm embarrassed to say that when I was cleaning the underside a bit before the wheel alignment today, I realised that the drag link tie rod (connection to LH knuckle) lifts up about 1mm pretty easily - so there's a jiggle up and down about 1mm). No obvious sideways movement, but I'm presuming this isn't as it should be? I tightened the nut to make certain that wasn't the problem, which it wasn't. There is clearly up and down jiggle within the ball joint.

Thanks,
Myles

Originally Posted by Campaspe Man

There is clearly up and down jiggle within the ball joint.

Presumably, this was fixed prior to the alignment?

Originally Posted by DieselLSE

Presumably, this was fixed prior to the alignment?

Well no... hopefully I was clear enough that it isn't the main ball joints, it's the steering tie rod. It is otherwise tight. But I'm sensing you don't think it should have any jiggle in it??

Thanks,
Myles