Thread: TD5 Cranks But Won’t Start

Originally Posted by Overconfident Kid

I tried replacing the relays one by one, the main relay, the glow plug relay and the fuel pump relay as they all run on the same circuit, but it didn’t do anything. I’ll check the inertia switch cause that is something I haven’t checked yet.

Welcome to the club brother! I'd almost recommend trying a different ECU if you have one easily accessible, I've had two ecus die and had similar issues with not being able to read on the nanocom. Lucky for me I had 3 spares in the shed, but all mine ended up needing was a new ECU with the security code of the BCU, is there any chance you've cranked it with a low battery or anything , as that was where all my problems started

Originally Posted by Adarewyr

is there any chance you've cranked it with a low battery or anything , as that was where all my problems started

They don't like that.

Originally Posted by Tins

They don't like that.

Mine doesn't really like starting....

Originally Posted by Adarewyr

Mine doesn't really like starting....

I think it's contagious.

Originally Posted by Tins

I think it's contagious.

Mongrel! ... 'ya jinxed me now! ...

When Adarewyr had his issues and I tested stuff, I did it on the D2a(battery new).

Today, D2 played up(ish).

Started up and drive off, felt a bit sluggish, but sometimes can do this. The way I sit in the D2s. I have the stg tilt adjusted for full leg clearance, which means I can't see bottom row of dash.

i.e. I missed the M&S and flashing D indicator, but D2 started started sluggish and then once out of town, wouldn't change up to 4th. ????

After a min or two leaned over and saw M&S and flashing D. Pulled up side of the road, turned off, nanocom always in car in Instr mode, so checked faults. Same annoying CAN error as the other threads.

Cleared, check for other faults, found rear ABS sensor speed signal fault too, cleared that ... etc. started .. M&S and flashing D again!

backround: I have two optima batteries where the std battery sits. They are old now, yellow has been dead for years now(but OK as not used in anger). Red top slowly loses charge .. maybe 4 days no top up and will be dead.
IDIOT! me, forgot to put it on the trickle charger set up I have(small solar and stuff) and hadn't used D2 for a few days(maybe 5, can't recall).

But anyhow today, D2 started failed about 3 times. One time it wouldn't start, but others would start just flash the M&S and D.
For those starts tho, I had HVAC fan on 1 setting. To save battery, I then turned off HAVC completely. Doing this now helped starting and running clean(ie. no flashing lights).

Got to shops, did my shopping, maybe 10-15mins between each stop, went to bros house, checked up on his painting(reno) again three time in town I started D2 always HVAC off and no problems starting cleanly.

Which is weird ... battery I know is not good, Not dead for all money bad, just not good, but starts the D2 fine. Maybe a sec of cranking, and starts, and sounds 'normal' crank speed.

So there 'ya have it.

Reminder to self ... have to get new batteries soon.

I started it, mine hasn't fired for twelve months now.

Don't know whether anyone has mentioned it, but I'd be checking the ECU fuse in the fusebox under the steering wheel, 10 amp job from memory.

Secondly, I'd be very surprised if a failing or flat battery would damage a TD5 ECU in any way.

Maybe a voltage spike from an external source could do it, but I doubt the standard car electrical system would do it, battery problems included.

Engine ECUs do fail though, but it's not a super common thing, i'd imagine that the D2 one would be more likely to fail than a defender one due to the extra heat.

Ok after trouble shooting, it turned out to be the inertia switch after all, pressed that and the car starts and drives. Clutch feels smooth and the new solid mass flywheel doesn’t feel shudder. After changing the transfer and gearbox oils, shifting is a whole lot smoother now. However, last night when I went to start it to drive home it wouldn’t start, it cranked but no start, fuel system could prime nanocom showed no faults but the rpm reading was 0. The battery voltage was a bit low (less than 12v), tried jump starting but that didnt work either. So left came back half an hour later and it started no problem. Charged the battery over night and now it starts fine.

Additionally the headlights seem to both be really dim, they work but are so dim I can’t enough light to drive at night unless the high beams are on. So yeah, also sometimes when I park and turn it off, all of the rear taillights won’t turn off.

Disco things I guess?