Thread: Noob asking for buying advice

The seller appears to have left a very large negotiating buffer. Check if it has a centre diff lock, I don't think that year even had the internals for such, a big negative.

Originally Posted by V8Ian

The seller appears to have left a very large negotiating buffer. Check if it has a centre diff lock, I don't think that year even had the internals for such, a big negative.

Would lack of CDL be a major concern if I wasn’t planning to do serious off-roading? I’m a noob in every sense of the word, definitely not an experienced 4x4’er so this may not impact me.

If I could push my luck - do you have any thoughts on either of these other listings?

$17,900 AUD @ 248,830km
carsales.com.au

$20,000 AUD @ 162,507km
carsales.com.au

Highly recommend reading all the D2 guides in the pinned threads here - I read these religiously before purchase and it helped immensely. Will allow you to tell if the car has CDL etc. and will help with sniffing out potential issues

Originally Posted by reid25

Highly recommend reading all the D2 guides in the pinned threads here - I read these religiously before purchase and it helped immensely. Will allow you to tell if the car has CDL etc. and will help with sniffing out potential issues

Thanks mate, appreciate the tip - I have done a bit of a crawl through the forum and watched the stickied videos on this sub-forum re: buyers guide for the D2. It does sound like there's plenty to be mindful of when looking at these used vehicles.

I guess I'm looking for a bit of a 'gut feel' from the more experienced forum members as to whether this has the makings of a good purchase or whether there are red flags I'm not privy to (as V8Ian mentioned the lack of a CDL which wasn't something on my radar).

I'm not sure how best to compare listings, e.g. how the $11,500 vehicle stacks up against this $20k listing here: carsales.com.au
Whether it is better to aim for the more expensive model with a known service history vs. the cheaper one where issues may be more likely to occur, but I will have more money in my 'safety buffer' to account for these issues.

Again I'm sure these are naive questions - my first car was a hand-me-down used car and I've owned brand new cars ever since. This is the first time I am considering going 'backwards' and looking at older used cars, so I'm not sure if my logic is sound here :P

Originally Posted by awhiskin

Thanks mate, appreciate the tip - I have done a bit of a crawl through the forum and watched the stickied videos on this sub-forum re: buyers guide for the D2. It does sound like there's plenty to be mindful of when looking at these used vehicles.

I guess I'm looking for a bit of a 'gut feel' from the more experienced forum members as to whether this has the makings of a good purchase or whether there are red flags I'm not privy to (as V8Ian mentioned the lack of a CDL which wasn't something on my radar).

I'm not sure how best to compare listings, e.g. how the $11,500 vehicle stacks up against this $20k listing here: carsales.com.au
Whether it is better to aim for the more expensive model with a known service history vs. the cheaper one where issues may be more likely to occur, but I will have more money in my 'safety buffer' to account for these issues.

Again I'm sure these are naive questions - my first car was a hand-me-down used car and I've owned brand new cars ever since. This is the first time I am considering going 'backwards' and looking at older used cars, so I'm not sure if my logic is sound here :P

In all honesty, carsales is an inflated market and isn't a true representation of actual pricing IMO. You'll notice listings will sit there forever with no actual sales, people always want too much there. I would be keeping an eye on gumtree and marketplace, as these will be much better priced and all round better deals. IMO neither of the ones you've linked I'd be looking at, theres nothing on either that jumps out at me as being 'worth' that money, there's much better ones for that price.

Can't see that $20K one. Carsales say I'm blocked. Looked on the app and don't see it there either. But it would want to be bloody good for those $$$.

As Ian says, the CDL is a walk away matter. If it has the internals then not so bad, but you need to factor it into your budget, because most of the aftermarket control systems were not cheap, and are probably no longer available. Alternatives may be a D1 mechanism, or finding a D2 wreck where someone hasn't beaten you to it. But you need a CDL.

If I was buying again I'd look for the D2a. Just that little bit better. But I still love the D2 I've had for 16 years.... Well, I'm not talking to at the moment, but you get that in any relationship. And that's what you are buying.

Ks don't really trouble a TD5, but they are definitely a factor for the auto, along with the servicing of it, and whether it has towed. The ZF is a good box if maintained, a time bomb if not. While on that, proper servicings and inspections of the front tailshaft are vital. That one is a showstopper if it breaks.

All in all though, if you get a good one it will be a great car. If you get a not so good one we'll expect to be hearing from you here... But whichever, if you have decided to get one then you will probably love it. Like a dog. 95% of the time they are always there, ready for an outing. The other 5% they will have eaten your shoe, or rolled in cow ****. But you will forgive.

Originally Posted by Tins

Can't see that $20K one. Carsales say I'm blocked. Looked on the app and don't see it there either. But it would want to be bloody good for those $$$.

As Ian says, the CDL is a walk away matter. If it has the internals then not so bad, but you need to factor it into your budget, because most of the aftermarket control systems were not cheap, and are probably no longer available. Alternatives may be a D1 mechanism, or finding a D2 wreck where someone hasn't beaten you to it. But you need a CDL.

If I was buying again I'd look for the D2a. Just that little bit better. But I still love the D2 I've had for 16 years.... Well, I'm not talking to at the moment, but you get that in any relationship. And that's what you are buying.

Ks don't really trouble a TD5, but they are definitely a factor for the auto, along with the servicing of it, and whether it has towed. The ZF is a good box if maintained, a time bomb if not. While on that, proper servicings and inspections of the front tailshaft are vital. That one is a showstopper if it breaks.

All in all though, if you get a good one it will be a great car. If you get a not so good one we'll expect to be hearing from you here... But whichever, if you have decided to get one then you will probably love it. Like a dog. 95% of the time they are always there, ready for an outing. The other 5% they will have eaten your shoe, or rolled in cow ****. But you will forgive.

I retrofitted mine cheaply and effectively my using a D1 output housing and internals and a basic push pull handle and cable mounted on the trans tunnel. Has served me well for many years and does not rely on electrics/solenoid like some kits did. If the D2 without CDL internals (ie no spigot) was otherwise in very good condition i would not rule it out, but would factor in the cost of retrofitting. Cheers

Originally Posted by ozscott

I retrofitted mine cheaply and effectively my using a D1 output housing and internals and a basic push pull handle and cable mounted on the trans tunnel. Has served me well for many years and does not rely on electrics/solenoid like some kits did. If the D2 without CDL internals (ie no spigot) was otherwise in very good condition i would not rule it out, but would factor in the cost of retrofitting. Cheers

No, and neither would I. But I would advise someone else to if I wasn't aware of their mechanical knowledge. If I was retrofitting the internals I'd try and save enough for an Ashcroft ATB.

I pulled one of those electric kits from a donor car. I didn't keep it...