D2 front drive shaft problem?

Certainly do. Was $600- + $25 (by memory) freight to Sydney. Just check the measurements if it's been lifted.

Actually on/off topic, I need to mod the rear on mine. Using a RRC rear which has a dodgy slip joint and uni (at that end) the original D2 donut type is in good condition so I need to cut the RRC shaft and have the D2 end welded on. I've contacted to 2 specialists so far and neither can give me a price without seeing it (FFS you're welding a tube) and one couldn't even get their head around what I wanted.

Any suggestions in Sydney that aren't Hardy Spicer or Metro Drive Shafts?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Certainly do. Was $600- + $25 (by memory) freight to Sydney. Just check the measurements if it's been lifted.

Actually on/off topic, I need to mod the rear on mine. Using a RRC rear which has a dodgy slip joint and uni (at that end) the original D2 donut type is in good condition so I need to cut the RRC shaft and have the D2 end welded on. I've contacted to 2 specialists so far and neither can give me a price without seeing it (FFS you're welding a tube) and one couldn't even get their head around what I wanted.

Any suggestions in Sydney that aren't Hardy Spicer or Metro Drive Shafts?

---

It might be cheaper/easier to get a complete rear shaft from TW in the US and eliminate the donut.

Just a thought as people keep having problems with DC front shafts for 110/130's that are made here and everyone who has a TW shaft appears to have no problem long term.
A couple of people had TW make 110 and 130 rear shafts too, one for a 130 was made with a DC at both ends to eliminate a vibe.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by northiam

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/5442/sdsc00027.jpg

don't give up, life's to short...

Your own pic above shows the lack of sealing and the geeza concurs at
Driveline Services Australia | Driveline Services where I picked up the spares and compared the K5-A757.
Some would agree it's the dirt and water and lack of lubrication that wears the universals:)

---

It's a different style of seal, not worse IMO.

After driving through a river at least twice a day for three years just to get in and out of home, 20km of dirt at a minimum during the same time period plus multiple creek crossings, etc weekly and driving through a creek at my current home when it rains, I finally replaced the rear uni's after 290,000km.
I don't think sealing on the HD uni is an issue.

Personally I'd rather have a bit of strength, if none of that convinces you, just climb under the car every 5,000km and give them a squirt of grease, but I never bothered doing them that frequently either.

Seriously, you are worrying over nothing.

140,000 kms, replaced with an exchange from Anthony Johnson, less than $500 fitted. Suspension is "lifted" 2 " but reality is its as per specs as with the bar work etc on the car, its at the standard height of a new car.....

Looks like it just ran dry after 10 years.....

I have removed the donut. Henc the classic shaft, but the front section (slip joint and uni) of the classic shaft is stuffed but the back is ok. The front half of the D2 shaft is good so I just want to graft one onto the other.

If they want $600- for that you know where they can go.

What irks me is:

"cut the end off shaft 1. cut the same end off shaft 2. weld end cut off shaft 2 onto opposing end of shaft 1"

what part of that is so hard to undertand that not only can you not quote for about 6" (if lucky) of weld and balance let alone not grasping the concept at all.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 1976_michelle

Thanks to Clubagreenie picking it up in an inspection, mine was done at a car dealership
89000km, no serious offroading that is obvious, not raised, unsure of the replacement part but is like the mutant cow mentioned above :D

Mine does not have the alteration done to the aircon hoses yet if that is a factor

---

Do I need to send you some garden hose and cable ties?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

I have removed the donut. Henc the classic shaft, but the front section (slip joint and uni) of the classic shaft is stuffed but the back is ok. The front half of the D2 shaft is good so I just want to graft one onto the other.

If they want $600- for that you know where they can go.

What irks me is:

"cut the end off shaft 1. cut the same end off shaft 2. weld end cut off shaft 2 onto opposing end of shaft 1"

what part of that is so hard to undertand that not only can you not quote for about 6" (if lucky) of weld and balance let alone not grasping the concept at all.

---

call the wreckers in padstow (trs), d1 rear shaft $75. :cool:

After just forking out about $6000 to get my head gasket, radiator, water pump and everything associated with those things replaced I was on my way home from the work shop when I heard a chirping sound coming from under the front of the car while engine braking. I was thinking to myself "c'mon what now!" so I pulled over to check that nothing was loose in the engine bay, couldn't find anything so I jumped back in turned the radio up and headed home.

The next day I head off to work and noticed the chirping was gone but as I got most of the way there the car starts to get this vibration under my feet at about 70-80km/h. I kept going and got to work ok but when I jumped under the car for a look I grabbed the front drive shaft, gave it a turn and it was just sloppy back and forth.

My disco is a 99 manual td5 with 190000kms on the clock with original drive shafts, so from what I have read from a few of these posts I'm lucky it lasted that long.

I ripped it out before leaving work that day and locked my CDL so I could still drive. I dropped it off at a local drive shaft workshop and it's going to cost me about $350 to have it rebuilt with all 3 unis (greasable ones this time) and a balance.

I guess these are just the joys of owning a land rover :p

Mick.

At least it gave you the warning signs before it went bang,, some are not so lucky.
Listen for the chirps people!;)

Hi, I am new to this and having just bought a '99 D2 V8 at the start of June, I now have a really bad shudder that start at about 80kph thru to 95Kph.

Thinking that the fornt propshaft is cactus, ca's done 185,000 and it appears to be the original shaft, no grease nipples on the cardan joint uni's, I have bought a new shaft locally.

I have a question about the new shaft, it has the grease nipples in one end of each uni in the cardan joint, has any one seen this before and will it be okay?

I would like to insert a couple of pics, but don't know how to. Worked it out.

Regards Ray