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+2Quote:
Originally Posted by Maggot4x4
I can't find where any one has answered this question, correct me if im wrong.
Ive just been under my RRC & D2 as well,
Both the shfts are the same length, as stated above the RRC one piece shaft has a greater angle than on the D2.
Has anyone tried a 1 piece front prop shaft in, no one seemed to have any problems with them on RRC or the D1.
More vibes without a DC joint, that's all, and most of the straight uni joints (at least OEM) don't have the working angle needed on anything lifted.Quote:
Originally Posted by roverv8
My son had a DC joint collapse while travelling through Uralla (just south of Armidale NSW) a few years ago. Soon after he pulled up a guy who builds drive shafts for farm equipment, came out of the house he had pulled up in front of. This occurred on a Saturday afternoon and the guy was well dressed and on his was to a wedding reception, for which he was apparantly looking for an excuse not to attend. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by roverv8
Three hours later my son drove away from the guys workshop with a non-cardan front prop shaft. Half of the DC joint was salvaged and became a standard (single) uni joint and the shaft was extended to make up for the loss of length caused by removing one uni. :D All this at no charge - I think he was happy to get out of going to the reception. :D
The Disco was driven around with this rebuilt prop for a few weeks at up to 110kph with no sign of vibration or other ill effects. The Disco was standard height and was not subjected to any extreme suspension travel while the repaired prop was fitted.
Whats the difference with a 2 inch lifted D1 Or D2,Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
as pointed out already my lifted RRC has a faily decent angle on the front prop, never vibrated at all
Dunno, all I know is that a DC joint will be smoother/less NVH than a standard uni shaft for a Land Rover and that's why they fit them to the DII.Quote:
Originally Posted by roverv8
The reason why a DC joint is needed is to reduce vibration (or a standard uni shaft has the uni's fitted out of phase, which is a cheap arse work around)
The problem is that the diff pinion points up at the t/case rather than being in the same plane as the t/case output flange.
Defenders all come with standard uni's (fitted out of phase) and it isn't until you use long travel dampers you get joint bind, (or buy a new TDCi with low working angle flanges and yokes) but there is more vibration than when using a DC shaft.
From Tom Woods site
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/10/1462.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/10/1505.jpg
mmm,
any disco or RRC ive seen has the front diff angled upwards as in the first diagram, to keep the shaft in a straighter line, with the flange
never seen a landrover front diff parallel as in the bottom diagram.
feel free to correct me if im wrong but ive only ever seen the front diff angled upward.
When mine does crap out i think i'll be game enough to try a 1 piece front prop shaft, seems to me a whole lot of extra parts & expence for very little reward.
I have plenty laying around, and if i find it's no good i'll get the DC one repaired.
I could understand using the DC in the bottom diagram as the diff is parallel,
it kinda contradicts itself.
But thanks for the diagrams
No one has said that a Rover front diff pinion is parallel to the t/case output, what I'm trying to show is that the geometry of a Rover front prop shaft in theory should use a DC joint at the t/case end.
Land Rover mostly don't run a DC coupling, and get away with it by running the uni's out of phase, but it isn't 'ideal'.
Uni joints has obviously come up repeatedly in this thread, and most replace the LR ones with off the shelf 1300 Series Spicer type uni's.
(Hardy-Spicer part # K5-LR4)
This is a bit of a mistake.
The Land Rover uni's, while matching the 1300 Series Spicer in external dimensions, is much beefier in the cross and the needle rollers are longer than the joint listed above, making it at least as strong as a standard 1310 Series Uni.
The Hardy-Spicer # for this uni is K5-A757
The Land Rover # is TVC100010
I've posted these photo's up in various threads, but maybe more people will see them here. (I pinched the photo's from a thread on LR4x4)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Had a quick peek under the d2 yesterday and thought I should take a look at the double cardan. I've previously been twisting the joint by the ends, and haven't been able to detect any play. This time when I gave it a twist there is a very small amount of movement and you can feel a but not hear a light click when you turn in each direction, so obviously there is a small amount of wear.
The other thing I tried was rocking the centre section of the DC and there was a significant amount of movement. I haven't check this before so not sure if it's normal for a DC joint?
I've pulled the shaft and I can just see a small amount of play where the cross shafts enter the bearing cups. The rotational play seems marginally worse than when it's in the car, but still not a huge amount.
I'm going to drop the shaft off to a driveline specialist on Monday for a check up and repair if necessary.
cheers
Paul