Thread: D2 front drive shaft problem?

Originally Posted by FenianEel

Forget that ****!
Take it to a truck repair place, they'll balance it and make it greaseable.
I'm sure there's some pretty decent ones around Caboolture.
Got mine done at Gibbs Truck Repairs Burleigh for $265.

Mine already looks like that.

I have already had my front shaft rebuilt 2 x times with heavy duty greasable joints, 1st time at 80,000km (Sep 2009), 2nd time at 110,000km (May 2010) and now again at 130,000km.

I have also replaced the rear rotoflex tail shaft with a rear shaft from a D1 with uni-uni arrangement.

As mentioned, I am now ordering from Hardy Spicer 2 x SCV-082B Centre Bearings and 10 x K5-A747 1300 Series Uni Joints . This will allow me to replace all 5 joints in my driveline, build a spare front shaft and have 2 x uni's and 1 x centre bearing as spares.

I will however find somewhere to get the 2 x fronts and 1 x rear shaft rebalanced.

Until I get around to the transfer case and install the CDL I need the spare front shaft to keep driving.

A few hours in the garage and here is the result and no more noises or vibrations from the disco and all for $20.00.

I used;

1 x used front drive shaft $20.00 (Jag and Rover Spares Newmarket)
1 x spare uni out of my old rear drive shaft

You would think the universal was a new item after I cleaned it up.

I've just been through two shafts in a week. The first one went while towing my trailer through Bathurst, and pretty quickly developed from a vibration to a thumping. I got a new one freighted to Bathurst, this one made it home and to the Central Coast only to start vibrating. I limped home, and it got worse as I went. I was told by my Land Rover man in Brookvale, that is was one of a bad batch from Hardy-Spicer.

Jeff

new Bike pics??

I have a new D2 OEM DC front shaft stored away (ready to go into a lifted D1) and it seems a pity to do a greasable conversion in advance of getting some use out of it.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the part played by being under the AC condensate drain versus that part played by the sealed design in their rapid degredation as I would prefer to relocate the AC line (single uni on a D1 is outside the drip line, a DC is not) and give it a go???? Anyone got some results from doing a AC drain relocation and then fitting a new OEM DC shaft??

My imediate thought is that while condensate water on the DC is not helpful, failure primarly comes from their sealed/non-greasable design for this application?? This is on account relocation of the AC drain is not or very rarely mentioned in posts on this subject and I would have thought that would be the first thing to do??

Nearly every thread on here mentions the aircon drain. Most people have re-routed it, and I would say it is a necessity.
You are right in regards to the OEM shaft too.
If you have one, I'd use it. But it will go on you. As long as you keep an eye on it, it will be a good temporary solution, maybe for 50,000k, maybe 120,000k who knows?

Hi sorry to jump in but Jeff who Is your land rover man in brookie?I'm starting to stress while slowing or even coasting around 40km I'm getting this terrible cracking noise like a stick has flicked up from underneath,one been told backlash but would this happen while cruising in school zone for instance'suggestions would be unreal

jump under and have a look,,

if you see shiny bits--