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Thread: Rear Wiper probs...

  1. 23rd August 2008, 09:46 PM #1
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    Rear Wiper probs...

    Question for the brains trust.

    The rear wiper on my D2 is not wiping correctly. At the start of the sweep, the area is the full length of the blade, however, by the time the arm has moved around to about the 10 o'clock position, the top 3 or so inches are missed. This means that the high level brake light is not wiped, or about an inch below this either.

    I have tried replacing the blade holder, (cause I broke the last one trying to adjust it) with exactly the same result.

    Next idea was to place a wedge in the little hinge bit near the end of the wiper blade, to force it closer to the window. No luck here either.

    Latest & greatest idea was to use a heat gun to soften the plastic wiper arm and see if I could get about 2mm more angle on the main arm itself. No joy here either. I think it needs more heat than I was prepared to give it.

    The dealer has no ideas, except for replacing the entire arm at the typical inflated price of $140 + fitting.

    So, I am after any ideas as to how to get the wiper to do its job properly.

    I am almost at the point of going to a wreckers & getting another one to see if I can fix it that way.
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  2. 23rd August 2008, 09:55 PM #2
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    i have the exact same problem. i suspect the one piece plastic arm gets a bit warped during the summer.

    i just give it a couple of extra wipes, a few seconds after its finished to fix up what it can. i'm sure i have some sort of OCD, all these seemingly little things bug the crap out of me!
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  3. 23rd August 2008, 10:16 PM #3
    Tombie Guest
    Theres a rear wiper

    You spend too much time looking where you've been
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  4. 23rd August 2008, 10:18 PM #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie2 View Post
    Theres a rear wiper

    You spend too much time looking where you've been
    Only really to see if the kid in his Camry on "P" plates who is driving while using his new IPhone, is going to attach himself to my towbar.

    Cant afford the fuel to tow him along too...
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  5. 24th August 2008, 06:50 AM #5
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    Even replacing the arm isn't a definite fix.

    We've replaced a couple of taildoor glasses to solve the problem. The glass itself can be ever so slightly concave in that area.
    Scott
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  6. 24th August 2008, 06:54 AM #6
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    Do any L322's suffer from concave rear glass that you know of scott?

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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  7. 24th August 2008, 05:27 PM #7
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    Not that I've seen.
    You're on your own with this one .
    Scott
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  8. 25th August 2008, 09:33 AM #8
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    Cant suggest a solution other than what you're already doing.

    But if you do buy a new rear wiper blade, check out British 4WD (in Tassie) they sell them for about $78. or even try Rimmer Bros in uk, even less at around 20 quid. (plus shipping of course).

    Found this out after replacing mine and spending $137 at a LR stealer.

    Part no. DKB102700 (arm, with washer hose) now superseded by DKB500310PMD
    DKC100890 (blade, that the rubber bit fits to)

    or even check out this
    Discovery Series 2--Wiper System

    do a Google.

    Oh, and a tip, if you do replace the rear arm, dont try to remove the spare wheel carrier to give yourself more room, 'cos the nuts fall into the door cavity which add another 3 hrs to a 20 min job (removing the rear door cubby, door trim, handles, tearing the plastic membrane, breaking trim connectors, removing the sub-woofer (ES) and blowing a fuse (mine and the audio) .



    Geeze, just re-read this, I wasnt really that angry, just felt a bit dumb at the time. I remember it was a sunny summers day and I did have a cold beer with me (feel better already)
    Last edited by simonl8353; 25th August 2008 at 09:42 AM. Reason: I not that angry
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  9. 25th August 2008, 09:40 AM #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl8353 View Post

    Oh, and a tip, if you do replace the rear arm, dont try to remove the spare wheel carrier to give yourself more room, 'cos the nuts fall into the door cavity which add another 3 hrs to a 20 min job (removing the rear door cubby, door trim, handles, tearing the plastic membrane, breaking trim connectors, removing the sub-woofer (ES) and blowing a fuse (mine and the audio) .
    Ah, the voice of experience I see...


    Thanks for the tips. I am thinking that I may even open the hole up a little & see if I can get the arm to slide back onto the shaft a bit more.

    I figure I only need another 2mm or so to make the thing work....
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