Thread: D2 and MAF - Mass Air Flow Sensor

where are you located??

The MAF sensor failure on these is so common, I keep the sensors on the shelf now
The auto trans shift points and overall behaviour is affected by this little item also, so if you D2 V8i or even Td5 is suffering and not pulling well, especially cold, then I would suspect it. The Testbook and rovacom usually won't show faults unless it has completely failed. I can get realtime kg/hr of mass airflow readings using rovacom while driving, and this immediately shows up a faulty / failing A/F meter.

JC

I think my record for a MAF change after half a dozen or so was 90 secs,,,


you can get kits to just replace the sensor/wire/electronics.


My saga---
D2 missing under load

Just an update on my 1999 D2 V8 MAF sensor - there is a thread here somewhere on how I had codes thrown showing a lean or rich mixture (this seems a common hint that a MAF is playing up) and suspect (high) fuel consumption.

I tried cleaning the original sensor with contact cleaner but it made no difference

I replaced my OE Bosch MAF sensor with a unit made by Intermotor. It was much cheaper that the Bosch replacement ($180 vs abt $350).

After two months driving it has fixed the codes and fuel economy seems a little better overall - although this aspect I cannot be 100 percent sure about (but codes are gone).

I have noticed something new: the car does hesitate slightly after cold start-up (probably accentuated because it is a manual). It is not bad enough to make me want to change it again but I wonder if this is the 'cost' of getting the cheaper, non-genuine replacement.

Originally Posted by 29dinosaur

where are you located??

hi mate,
i am located in Melb in vermont.

just an update, after 24 hrs of having the new MAF installed, and as per other comments here i can verify:

1. when cold, the car performs much better, i have a steep hill climb about 1km from my front door and the car doesnt labour as much or need anywhere near as much throttle to get up it at reasonable speed

2. the miss at 3100rpm has not come back

3. the car has heaps more power when you are just cruising along at 60km/hr... it is not kicking back as much to get up hills, its holding its current gear as im not needing to step on the pedal to make it maintain speed

4. the automatic box is changing gears differently, it seems to hold them a bit longer which is much better, rather than just jumping into 4th and then locking up the convertor...

generally its just alot more responsive and feels like im driving a V8!
for me who has only got the car a few months back, its like its new all over again!

id assume the MAF just slowly degrades over time.

Andrew

Originally Posted by justinc

The auto trans shift points and overall behaviour is affected by this little item also, so if you D2 V8i or even Td5 is suffering and not pulling well, especially cold, then I would suspect it.

Originally Posted by astormsau

4. the automatic box is changing gears differently, it seems to hold them a bit longer which is much better, rather than just jumping into 4th and then locking up the convertor...

Does the MAF also play a part in the shift pattern of a D1 V8i?

I dealt with Webcon in the UK - what was Webber carbs...very good brand over the years. They sent me 2 new MAFS on their aftermarket type for my D2. Both made the vehicle do very strange things and big loss of power flat spot between 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm then it took off again. They ended up refunding all money and my postage of the items back to them - very good company to deal with. They said that their MAFS worked fine on UK D2s..they resolved not to sell them to overseas countries again on the strength of their experience with mine.

I bought a new one from LR for $sh.tloads and it ran like a champ. The old one got fried because with my LPG I had a breather pipe off the pass side rocker cover back to the air box to make sure no gas found its way to the sump. Unfortunately it sucked oil (tiny bits here and there) into the air intake tube and it covered the MAF and completely stalled the can one day...I had to take off the fitting from the MAF (connector that is) and could drive it relatively well on a default setting then. Tried cleaning the old one but it was still pretty ordinary.

Cheers

I've had my DII V8 from new since 1999 and have replaced the MAF twice now over the period of time that I've owned it.

Both times that I've replaced the MAF with a genuine one, the V8 started to run really well, and revs out very cleanly.

It's a shame that the ECU does not give any warnings when the MAF degrades, so you could be using lots of fuel without knowing that it can be fixed via a MAF replacement.

Anyone know where to buy these MAF sensors cheaper than from your LR dealer? Looking at the sensor, it looks like a generic BMW MAF, as I've seen it (visually looks identical) on a 7 series Bimmer as well.