Thread: TD5 gear box

Originally Posted by Gold_TD5

How hard is it to rip the transfer case and gear box out.
I have an oil leak in the gearbox which needs attention.
I am mechanically savvy so I'm cable of doing this sort of job myself.
So is there anything out of the ordinary I need to know or special tools?
Or should I leave it an expert?

It is easy in the D2, but because the mount brackets are welded to the chassis, in order to remove the trans you will have to remove the mounts off the trans case to clear the brackets.(What were they thinking???)

Also, that starter motor top stud/nut is a good-un

You won't have a problem, just take your time and I hope you have a good safe trans jack.

JC

Auto or manual?

I haven't had anything to do with autos. Nor with Disco II's (TD5).

With a manual, there probably aren't too many significant differences to disco I and early rangies.

I would leave the engine in, but loosen the engine mounts, remove the top of the fan shroud, and relevant sections of the exhaust system to allow the rear of the engine to be lowered. Be aware of any fuel lines, clutch lines etc. that might be affected when the engine tilts down at the rear.

Work in a safe manner and assuming you don't have a vehicle hoist or pit, you may have to put large axle stands under the chassis. Work on level ground, preferably a concrete floor.

Naturally, both tail shafts have to be removed. I also remove the hand brake to make the t/case a bit lighter. Disconnect wires for speedo sensor, and and other indicating lamps (like diff lock, oil temp etc.). Drain oil from gearbox and t/case.

Put gearbox and t/case in neutral. Remove the centre console and disconnect handbrake cable and t/case linkages. Remove screws and clamp plate from rubber seal that fixes to the gearbox (assuming that disco II is like disco I). Remove gear shift.

I remove the t/case from the gearbox, to lighten the load, but it would be possible (but heavy) to pull both together. I also remove the input gear before pulling the t/case (remove circular pto cover and slide input gear from gearbox shaft).

Jack under gearbox, remove cross member and gearbox/transfer case mounts. Then lower jack to drop gearbox etc. lower - continually check that you are not straining any fuel lines etc or fouling anything as back of engine gets closer to the firewall or front of engine rises (oil cooler line to radiator?).

Unbolt and remove t/case - I use a trolley jack to take the weight (and it is lowered as it moves back).

With the gearbox lower then normal, and long extension bars (I use 2, 500mm long bars) it should be possible to get access to all of the bellhousing bolts working from the rear of the gearbox - this is by far the easiest way.

I transfer the jack from under the gearbox to the flywheel housing and put the trolley jack under the gearbox before unbolting the bell housing from the flywheel housing.

When the bolts are removed, you should be able to pull the gearbox back to disconnect from clutch plate. Take care to keep everything aligned until the gearbox is clear of the clutch plate. You may have to lower both jacks some more so the gear shift clears the opening in the tunnel.

Originally Posted by Gold_TD5

How hard is it to rip the transfer case and gear box out.
I have an oil leak in the gearbox which needs attention.
I am mechanically savvy so I'm cable of doing this sort of job myself.
So is there anything out of the ordinary I need to know or special tools?
Or should I leave it an expert?

TIP: whilst the TC is out, get a bush fitted to the intermediate shaft so the seal will last.