Looks as though I need to find someone with a D2 that I can get some measurements off.
I will post up a new thread when Im organised, I will make some calls in the nest couple of weeks, the engineering shop I use isnt re-opening until the 27th so I wont know anything until some time after that.
Check this link out, Enabling the Discovery II Center
It doesn't really look too hard to make, you can an idea of sizes by referencing from the nut.
I would also be interested in buying a kit of this type.
Hi McRover.
I'm ne to the forum - I joined because I have a Series 2 Disco and I'm also having the CDL problems. From what I have read on the varoious forums on the AULRO website, there are heaps of people who lament the ommission of the CDL by Land Rover. I've checked out kits from heaps of Land Rover places around and the prices range as follows 9not including installation):
-AMV - $660 (high/low range), electric with buttons.
-GCA - $470
-RovParts - $
-TRS - $795 (high/ low range), manual cable.
-4x4 systems - no kit sold
-Ritters Automotive - $550 for kit. Manual (therefore high/ low range) with extra knob near range selector.
How have you gone with your enginerring shop? I'd be interested to see how much these would cost. I'm not fussed whether I go a manual set-up, or electric (via an actuator) - if I use the actuator, I want to definitely make sure I get a waterproof solenoid. Rosscoe68 was also going to put up some photos on another posting - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/38640-cdl-actuator-install-disco-ii.html
Can anyone also outline how much benefit they have achieved from putting the CDL in place?
Benefit - best mod I've done on my 2002 Td5. I was lucky enough to source the front output housing and shift lever from 2004 model together for $400 so the install looks genuine. I put the CDL in as soon as I'm off the bitumen and it seems to settle the car. Did one trip across the Simpson without CDL and one with. The latter I only saw the TC light come on when climbing hard up soft sand, presumably with reduced weight on the front wheels. Also much safer now on the backing down slippery hills situation. You wont regret the investment.
_________________________
1996 D1 V8 - gone
2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
2023 Defender 110SE D300
What ever you do, DON'T GO ELECTRIC, it will not last, I did this and it only lasted 12mths, they rust and get clogged with dust and crap.
Baz.
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
x 2, completely agree. ASAP I will be re-instating the CDL with a genuine kit. I used the CDL with a 10mm spanner but its not a convenient way to engage it. The performance improvement on any off-road surface is significant!.
I made a cheapie kit 2 weeks ago (on another thread). While it worked, I couldnt get it to fit cleanly due to the ACE and other cables in the way (on my ES D2)
A wiper motor is fairly highly geared & should have sufficient torque to activate CDL if connected to a suitably modified 10mm spanner. All you would need is a bracket to mount wiper motor & two way switch to reverse polarity in cabin. Has anyone tried this?
Cheers..Bruce
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