ABS Module - Need your Thoughts

**JayBee75** · 17th February 2009, 04:32 PM

Guys, I have the three amigos problem, thought it may have calmed down and was just a once in a while situation, however in tipical british electrics style it's frequency varies as much as my current married sex life.

Definately has been diagnosed as a shuttle valve switch failure via range rov.

Ladas has kindly offerred to help me put in the switch kit that I can purchase for $120, I was about to order this and take him up on his very kind offer.

However have come accross this option that I could do in the UK:

Land Rover Discovery ABS Pump/Module ECU WABCO - eBay, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles. (end time 27-Feb-09 03:13:54 AEDST)

(I apologies up front if I am not allowed to post links)

Not sure of the postage but would get my unit reconditioned for around $600 all up, much better than the $1800 I have been quoted here locally.

My question is has anyone done the reconditioned option? What was the result? likewise the switch option? As I have heard mixed results.

Really not sure whether to bite the bullet and just get the unit done.

Any opinions would be appreciated!

Thanks

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 17th February 2009, 05:01 PM

Untill reco-ing the wabco's become a LOT more common than at present( I havent heard of one on here yet---)
I'd take Ladas up on his kind offer---

**Grumbles** · 17th February 2009, 05:35 PM

I was unaware of anyone in Oz reconditioning the Wabco units. I Looked hard when mine went and could find no -one. Overseas sounds good [and cheap] but the time delay is unacceptable [for me anyway]. The $1800 sounds reasonable compared to vehicle off road delays and the price of a new unit.

**simonl8353** · 17th February 2009, 05:49 PM

IMHO, The offer from Ladas would be the go.
You could get a quote from Jobson Electronics in Carlton Vic Jobson Electronics - 189 Elgin Street Carlton VIC 3053 but I do not have any intel on them.

mike 90 RR · 17th February 2009, 10:17 PM

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

I'd take Ladas up on his kind offer---

Originally Posted by simonl8353

IMHO, The offer from Ladas would be the go.

x3 IMHO ...

**Blue Meanie** · 18th February 2009, 01:13 PM

I suggest that you get them to check continuity between the two pins that the shuttle valve switch connector plugs onto on the bottom of the ABS modulator and the two pins that connect to the loom on the side of the modulator (pins 8 & 9 from memory). I had a new SVS installed but it didn't fix the problem. When I got around to investigating myself, I found that the earth pin on the base of the modulator would lose continuity with pin 8(?) if I pressed it directly into the modulator although it didn't wobble at all so you wouldn't pick this up by just testing for looseness. In the end I by-passed the internal wiring in the modulator and spliced wires from the SVS straight into the loom. I've had no problems since. So its worth checking this while the modulator is out rather than fitting the new SVS and then finding it hasn't worked.

**Graeme** · 18th February 2009, 02:37 PM

Has the modulator been given a good bleed? It could be sticky shuttle valves rather than an electrical problem.
I use a piece of wire with a spade terminal on each end to temporarily replace the ABS pump relay so that I can bleed the brakes and modulator properly.

**zzsteve** · 18th February 2009, 07:15 PM

Originally Posted by Graeme

I use a piece of wire with a spade terminal on each end to temporarily replace the ABS pump relay so that I can bleed the brakes and modulator properly.

Hi Graeme and colleagues,

How is this done? Is it as simple as bleeding in a conventional sense? i.e. fill reservoir, depress pedal and bleed at each slave cylinder nipple - but with the pump running? Does the pump make it unnecessary to depress the pedal?
(So many questions...sorry)

TIA
Steve

**Graeme** · 18th February 2009, 09:42 PM

I don't touch the pedal as the pump does the job. Do it with the ign OFF and be careful the reservoir doesn't run out of fluid due to the volume that can be drawn-off. I refill the reservoir after each wheel and only run the pump when I have the bleed tube ready. Never have I had it so easy to bleed brakes!

**JayBee75** · 19th February 2009, 02:04 PM

Originally Posted by Graeme

Has the modulator been given a good bleed? It could be sticky shuttle valves rather than an electrical problem.
I use a piece of wire with a spade terminal on each end to temporarily replace the ABS pump relay so that I can bleed the brakes and modulator properly.

Some very good points, I think at the last major service Rang Rov changed the fluid so I assume that would be the same senerio?

It's funny it has been going off all the time in the past week, there are times when it will go off when I touch the brake pedal, other times just while I am driving along without touching anything, and then yesterday I went over a bump and it went off. Today, nothing.

I think it seems like a sticky switch as it seems so tempremental. Also seems to be worse in hot weather.

After the posts the other day I had already ordered the switch from british 4wd so I am going to try that first, if it does'nt work, which with ladas 's help I'm sure it will! The bleed and checking the continunity of the two pins would be next then I assume, however that sort of thing starts to get out of my league, and the biggest challenge I have at the moment is time.

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