Reply With Quote....Originally Posted by happy
Fossicker
Be carefull when lifting the engine ,you don't damage the bottom radiator hose.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding he metal pipe that is connected to the bottom hose.
Fossicker
Engine mounts
....
Master
The OP make it sound so simple!
some what frustrating job on my own, and had to jack, block, jack to get enough height.
started out doing the right hand side but ended up doing the left hand side.
Right side this afternoon with a mate what knows stuff
Hay Ewe
Master
I have read and re-read all the how to's I can find on all the LR forums but none say where on the sump they are jacking, front behind the pulley or rear near the drain plug?
I don't have access to hoist so a trolley jack with a few blocks to distrubute the load will have to do.
Any advice by someone who has tackled this job will be appreciated.
Thank
Ryan.
Master
SupporterA longish lump of wood vertical on the sump edge where the bolts are. Do not jack the sump itself mate. Find somewhere solid and check it will hold before you do anything.
Trial and error for you as I don't remember where I jacked from. When you do lift it, give the car a shake to make sure the jack is solid.
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Swaggie
SubscriberX2 for engine crane.
Also when replacing place the mount nuts down for next time. There seems no reason for them to be up , as was probably easier to dress the engine on a stand. But much easier to do up the nuts from below.
Regards Philip A
Fossicker
did this job a couple of months ago. Main problem was how tight the nuts were on my car. Took me and a mate on the breaker bar to move them. Just have to loosen the fuel cooler to get to the top right hand side nut off. Put a jack on a block of wood and jacked the engine from the back corners. It moves easier than you think. But mine doesnt have the rear engine cover to stop it lifting, so could jack it right up against the fire wall. First job I did working on the car, took a couple of hours and lots of sweat.
Master
Thanks. I noticed you posted this previously and I agree about turning the bolts around to make life easier.
Master
I got all the bolts out without moving the fuel cooler. The first bolt was so tight I had the power bar on it with a pipe and it was tight to the last thread.
I have 2 trolley jacks so I am going to jack front and rear to distribute load on sump.
Master
As this is a How to, I thought I would add my experience having just fitted the new engine mountings to my D2 td5. I find that often the finer critical details are left out and you can never have too much information.
1. TR Spares in Padstow were by far the cheapest for genuine LR parts. Brilliant service, ordered over the phone and in my hands on the Gold Coast within 24 hours.
2. I would gladly pay someone a few hundred dollars to do this job the next time.
3. It took me 5 hours on my own but I work slow. I was a little apprehensive about jacking the motor up so high so I took my time with that.
4. Tools used were a 1/2inch socket set with a few extensions and a set of offset ring spanners. 15mm and 18mm. BTW a 18mm socket is not usually in a Gedore socket set.
5. I didnt need to remove the fuel cooler bolts but did remove the two bolts that secure the steel water pipe to the body below the radiator. I also loosened the intercooler pipes on either side of the motor.
6. The top nuts on the mountings came out easily enough from the top. As I was working on my own I found that from the top it was possible to wedge the offset ring spanner in place against something solid (not a brake pipe) and then loosen and remove the bolt from the bottom.
7. I used a trolley jack and a long square block of wood 100x100x350mm to jack the motor up. The motor was pretty stable jacked up. I jacked on the front of the sump. Jacking in the centre will get the right (drivers side) mount out, but I had to jack on the left (passenger side) of the sump to rotate the motor to get the left mount out. The rocker cover (without the acoustic cover) was against the firewall before I could get the left mount out. The right mount comes out the bottom easily. The left mount comes out the top but needs quite a bit of maneuvering and rotating to get out.
8. Once the new mountings are in get all the nuts and bolts in place and lower the motor slowly. Make sure the locating pins on the top of the mounting line up with bracket/mounting on the engine. Only once the motor is sitting on the new mounting should you tighten all the bolts and nuts.
Hopefully this makes someone else's job a little easier.
Ryan
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