Replacing D2 TD5 engine mounts - how to.

I am just reposting this from another thread I have. It's unedited so might not make complete sense but I'm posting it for the pictures that might help others:

Fount my problem. I had sort of worked it out before I replaced them but taking them out confirmed it.

I worked out it wouldn't vibrate if I parked on flat ground but it would when parked facing down hill. Since the handbrake is on the back on the transfer case, the engine was still twisted by the drive train when parked facing down hill.

I guess as they are apparently oil filled or something they vibration was much less when warm as the oil expended.

So the passenger side was totally gone and the drivers side looked pretty similar to the new ones so I kept it as a spare.

Interesting they were both still well over 5mm from the bottom which I had read was a test of if they are gone or not.

TD5 engine mounts from Land Rover in Darwin were $460 each. From Island 4x4, genuine Land Rover were 40 Pound each plus 41 pound shipping for the 2. They are 2.5kg each.

The old passenger side:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/332.jpg

The new mount: (They are pretty big. Near milo tin size. Bigger than I expected)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/333.jpg

You can see just how collapsed the old one was:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/334.jpg

I coouldn't get a photo with my phone with the mount in place but you can see there is no sign of the rubber being bottomed out:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/335.jpg

The mounts have a single pin to stop the centre turning as the bolt is done up. It doesn't matter if this pin is toward or away from the motor as there 2 holes in the engine bracket to accommodate the mount either way around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/336.jpg

The mount was so low I had to bend the heat shield to get a socket on the nut that goes on the Chassis.

Happy Days.

Thanks for posting that. I've had my new mounts for about 6 months and haven't changed them yet. Also got them from Island. Much, much, much cheaper then buying here.:) Have you noticed that it is a lot smoother now? Mine are shagged. I get an annoying vibration at idle. You should see the water in my bottle shake when its in the drink holder :D:D

When I did mine and I first fired it up afterwards, the change was that dramatic that if I couldn't hear the car I wouldn't have known it was running. Auto trans mounts also make a lot of difference

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Yeh mate, it's not just the vibration that's gone but when I would go over a bump, I'd get a reasonable thump through the whole body. I had suspected I had some worn suspension rubbers that I would get to next but it appears it was the engine bottoming out the mounts that was making the thump. I know I still need sway bar bushes as I can see a gap but at least the mounts have stopped the thump. I'm surprised at the difference it's made.

Something to note. The vibration was only when cold and went away after a bit of running at normal engine temperature. What had me stumped in the beginning was it wouldn't do it all the time. I worked out though that it would do it when parked facing down hill. What I worked out from that was, as the handbrake is on the back of the transfer case, the engine was being twisted by the drive train.

We live in Darwin and it doesn't get too cold here but we did a trip across the top to Queensland, down to Camooweal and back across the Barkley. As it was considerably colder there, the vibration in the mornings was unbelievably bad. I honestly thought the problem was much much worse and I was worried about getting home. Once home, I had mechanics look at it. My neighbor is a heavy vehicle Diesel mech, he looked at it and no one could work it out. Either it wouldn't do it at all or it wouldn't do it so bad. Now I have changed them the difference at idle on flat ground hasn't changed much. Once I took a guess at what it was, I could induce it by cornering hard right.

Happy Days

I did mine today :o I have the gearbox off so I just engine craned and did both sides at the same time, I wasn't sure if they had gone, but the engine is about 1" higher on the new mounts so I'm guessing they were none too healthy.
Looking forward to starting her up with new mounts, tq and gbox in the next week or two.
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I hope you all will be glad that after 6 years this post has made it the TGO:angel::D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

I hope you all will be glad that after 6 years this post has made it the TGO:angel::D

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All the information was there. It just needed some photos. :D

Old thread but a very useful one and I'm just going to let others know my experience of changing the mounts.

I am a 'developing' mechanic let's say. Reading many posts on this job some say it's easy and some say it's a right b1tch!

I was in the latter camp. Spent a whole day struggling to get the engine high enough so to any novice mechanics reading this I'll let you know what I learned over the last couple of days. This is just my own opinion and I am sure more experienced mechanics can do it other ways but this is aimed at those who struggle.

First off, forget about doing this with a crappy trolley jack. I got the engine almost high enough with a standard $50 jack jack but it was sketchy and probably very unsafe. I was at the point of putting it all back together and taking it to an expert. But instead I decided to get a proper jack. 2.5 tonne job with 500mm lift. It's not so much the height but the stability. It cost me 200 bucks from repco on sale.

Also, I removed the steel coolant tube as another poster suggested. Also fuel cooler as per original instructions.

Initially, I was jacking from mid sump, this didn't work and just lifted the vehicle as well. Once I got the proper jack in with a piece of 60mm x 30mm x approx 500mm timber placed vertically between the diff and bar (not sure of the proper name) towards the front of the sump the engine went straight up and I could easily access the mounts.

The driver side is relatively easy to switch out from underneath and it all lined up perfectly. I managed to do both at the same time. The passenger side was more problematic but with some maneuvering managed to get it in. However, it did not align perfectly but was only about 2mm out. Speaking to a mechanic mate he assured me it is was ok to muscle the bolt in as the rubber on the mount will bend to it.

I hope this helps someone. I reckon second time around I could do this in a couple of hours, but all things are easy when you know how! [bigsmile]

Cheers all.

I did mine recently too - I found it easier to jack up the engine via the edge of the sump to 'twist' the engine and do one side at a time. Gave plenty of room. Left side was still a bit of a bitch though [emoji12]

Next for me is the auto mounts. Should be fun but at least they seem easier to get to.

I lifted the ebgine up from the front of the sump and removed both mounts at the same time. The LHS one just got pushed off te chassis.