As the last two posters have mentioned, lift from the front of the sump, it twists the engine in the right way and do both GENUINE (they have a land Rover logo on them) mounts at the same time.
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As the last two posters have mentioned, lift from the front of the sump, it twists the engine in the right way and do both GENUINE (they have a land Rover logo on them) mounts at the same time.
I have changed out a few sets, and found that jacking by putting a block along the side of the sump and lifting that side, did make it easier to access each mount in turn.
And as everybody will remind you, definitely use genuine mounts, they are an item that should not be substituted with some cheapie option.
youd be lucky to get genuine anymore
You can get them but they are not cheap. Eg: GENUINE Engine Mount for Land Rover TD5 Defender Discovery 2 PAIR KKB500750
That's where I got mine from, and by sheer good fortune ebay had a 15% discount so I got those genuine fronts and aftermarket rears as well for about same as fronts only.
BUT while the fronts (genuine) made an outstanding difference from whole thing shaking at idle to a very low frequency (physical and audible) vibration at idle, changing the rear (with aftermarket) ones made no further improvement. the drivers rear was sheared and there was a block of rubber supporting the transfer case on the crossmember in true bushy fashion.
Has anyone done a swap out between aftermarket and genuine rear mounts coz you were unhappy and did it improve anything?
So today I took the plunge and fitted the new LR mountings. The old ones were really in a bad state, I don't think they have ever been replaced before, so they're 20 years old now!
The drivers side on the TD5 engine was relatively painless - took 2 hrs. I jacked up the engine with a jack and piece of steel tubing, using the sump surround where the bolts fit on. No problem, there is some meat there that one can use.
The passengers side was a nightmare. With the auto box there are cooling pipes in the way and there's not much meat on that side of the sump, 1cm max where the wood/steel can fit/lift against. I eventually made a steel bracket to lift the engine and after 4 hours of jacking, using different jacks, wood, steel etc I could get the old (collapsed) mounting out but not get the new one in. The engine was just not high enough. What a pig of a job!
Eventually just borrowed an engine hoist and lifted the engine on the front lift point, took all of 10 minutes! The engine was high up against the bulkhead.
In future I think the entire job would probably take 2-3 hrs with an engine hoist. Hopefully I'll never have to do the job again..
I want to say it took me 3 hours... and it did, of actual work. Just that my old body doesn't leap up from under like it used to, and my fractured spine ain't fully healed yet, so call it 5...
Pretty straightforward imo, I have done much harder jobs. It really helps to have a crane, and a good assortment of cordless tools. I don't know if I'd have got the driver's side top nut undone without the big rattler.
Car is much smoother, even though I don't think my old ones were as bad as some.
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Mario had the right stuff.....
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Dad and I did mine about 3 years ago, just used a jack and a long long bar and 1 side at a time. Had a block of wood and rubber on the jack. Took us about an hour which we expected a big fight but didn't find one. Probably need to do them again as I could only afford the cheap ones at the time so don't expect them to last well.