Replacing D2 TD5 engine mounts - how to.

**pohm66** · 23rd February 2009, 05:08 PM

A mate asked for my help on Saturday with replacing his engine mounts... It wasn't til he jumped in Grimmy a few weeks ago that he released the vibrations weren't natural... they crept up on him.

No PICs forget the camera

To see if your engine mounts have collapsed crawl underneath and there should be a 10mm+ gap inside the bottom of the mount to the base of the rubber (small round hole). In this case the rubber was pressing out the hole.

RAVE suggests having to remove the turbo, the centrifuge oil drain pipe and the 2 mounts that bolt directly onto the engine block. This is an alternative that worked for us.

Tools needed
10mm socket and or spanner for the fuel cooler
18mm socket
15mm socket
2 ratchets
Jack with plenty of lift and/or blocks of wood
Ratchet extensions 40cm+ would be best (suggest 1/2")
Universal socket knuckle
Screw driver to remove radiator top cowl
A mate to lend a hand and crawl under the vehicle. Long arms

and not all thumbs preferred.

Degrease both sides and underneath if needed. Whoever is under there will appreciate it.

First time doing this for both of us and job took 3.5 hours.... next time should be able to get it down to 2.5hrs with these instructions

If a dual battery is installed adjacent to turbo it may make getting the LH engine mount tricky or impossible as the mount exits through that area. SUGGESTION: before going further see if you can pass the new one down through that section.

1) Disconnect battery - advisable at best of times

2) Remove engine cover

3) Remove radiator top cowl

4) Remove the 4 bolts retaining the fuel cooler 2 short on top and 2 longer below.

5) Loosen on both engine mounts the 2 bolts to the chassis and the one to the mounting bracket off the block (at least this way you know that you can get both sides done)

6) Remove all 6 nuts and invert the bolts back through the mounts downwards (safety precaution and allows sufficient engine movement)

7) With jack placed as safely biased RH of sump lift motor. In our case the acoustic cover on the back on the motor had to come all the way up to touch the firewall. This lifted and rotated the engine enough to remove the RH engine mount and replace with new one.
NOTE1: the new one was about 15mm higher that the old collapsed one. Engine mount removed and replaced from below.
NOTE2: Double check the matching up of the locator pin on top of the engine mount to the bracket.

8) Replace with the new engine mount and place the 2 bolts back down to locate properly.

9) When lowering jack - Slowly - ensure that the top thread positions through bracket.

10) Now that the RH is done time to move to the LH which has a heat shield over it that needs to be transferred to the new mount.

11) With jack placed as safely biased LH of sump lift motor. In our case the acoustic cover on the back on the motor had to come all the way up to touch the firewall that lifted rotated the engine enough to remove the LH engine mount and replace with new one.
NOTE1: the new one was about 15mm high that the old collapsed one. Engine mount removed and replaced from ABOVE.
NOTE2: Double check the matching up of the locator pin on top of the engine mount to the bracket.

12) replace with the new engine mount and place the 2 bolts back down to locate properly.

13) When lowering jack - Slowly - ensure that the top thread positions through bracket and that the heat shield is sitting properly.

14) Move the mounting bolts the right way around and tighten properly

15) Tighten the top nut.

16) Repeat for the other side.

17) Replace fuel cooler.

18) Replace radiator cowl and radiator cowl and reconnect the battery.

19) Double check that you haven't dislodged wires or anything whilst working through the gaps especially on the turbo side.

Start motor and enjoy the serenity.....

**Rosscoe68** · 10th February 2010, 09:44 AM

had a sneaking suspicion of mounts on my car, just checked them and the rubber is sitting flush against the metal. looks like a bit of a job and a wad of cash leaving my hands soon.

anyone know if it is safe to drive on the mounts like this for a few weeks. heading out on a 2 week holiday in 3 days. dont really have time to do before i leave.

**Kandy** · 10th February 2010, 05:49 PM

It will "probably " be safe BUT you should be experiencing some funny vibration feelings and thinking WTF, I had mine done here inBriz. MR Auto- oops another plug- for under $300 to give you a guesstimate.
Steve

**Rosscoe68** · 11th February 2010, 07:09 AM

yeah, i have some vibrations and took it to the muffler shop as i thought it was the flex pipe under the turbo, but he told me it was the mounts.

so was that $300 all up fitted for 2 ? or just one side. i have been quoted $195 per side just for the mount plus fitting.

Ean Austral · 11th February 2010, 07:35 AM

Put a jack under the sump and leave the car in idle with someone sitting in it then slowly jack the sump,it should only take 2-4 pumps of the jack and the viabration will dissappear.

I drove mine around for about 3 months trying to find the problem.

Cheers Ean

**Rosscoe68** · 11th February 2010, 09:21 AM

problem is it only vibrates when its under load. at about 2200 rpm, free revving doesnt vibrate. at 2200 rpm in 2nd and 3rd its got a vibration and a very light metallic rattle.

i have checked the engine mounts and the rubber is pretty much sitting on the bottom plate. new ones there is almost and inch between the bottom plate and the rubber. so even if these are not causing the vibration, they still need replacing anyhow.

**disco_thrasher** · 11th February 2010, 01:41 PM

Originally Posted by Rosscoe68

problem is it only vibrates when its under load. at about 2200 rpm, free revving doesnt vibrate. at 2200 rpm in 2nd and 3rd its got a vibration and a very light metallic rattle.

i have checked the engine mounts and the rubber is pretty much sitting on the bottom plate. new ones there is almost and inch between the bottom plate and the rubber. so even if these are not causing the vibration, they still need replacing anyhow.

check your front driveshaft too as vibration at higher revs can be due to a failing uni-joint

john denney · 24th March 2010, 06:11 AM

I have had similar problems with a 2004 TD5 (UK).... the new engine mounts solved the problem......

The new engine mountings are now fitted and made a big difference! (thank God!). It cruises at 80 mph now with just wind noise and a bit of a drone from the engine so I guess its as good as it is going to be. The old mountings were goosed - the rubber bits were resting on the metal holder - the new ones gave a clearance of about 10mm. I have also fitted a de-cat pipe which has improved the response from the engine quite a lot... certainly worth doing!

The engine mountings were not too bad to do - I managed to get at the drivers side by removing the fuel cooler and although it was a bit tight everything came undone relatively easily. The passenger side was easier - I did not remove the turbo - a "universal joint" adapter on the socket allowed access.

The de-cat pipe was a nightmare! The crossmember really has to come off and despite buying a good quality 6 sided socket two of the bolts rounded off and I had to grind them away to remove it.... (I used a dremmel - very useful little tool for tight places!) The pipe is just a bit awkward to get in and out but was re-fitted with a bit of fiddling. I found it easier to attach the pipe to the exhaust first and then to the manifold.

Overall the jobs were well worth doing and in particular the new engine mountings have made a huge difference to the car - its much more refined at motorway speeds.. 80 mph used to be unbearable but is now relaxed and quiet.

Hope this info helps... and thanks to all who took the time to offer advice... new gearbox mountings tomorrow - and replace the bit of plastic under the engine..

.... so to get from a clattery, noisy rough car to a relatively quiet refined one I have had to fit recon injectors, new engine mounts, bin the EGR valve and fit a de- cat downpipe... well over a £1000 but I paid under the odds for it so I am still on the right side of its value.... hope it keeps going for a bit now - I am sick of crawling under it!

John

**catch-22** · 24th March 2010, 07:23 AM

Originally Posted by Rosscoe68

problem is it only vibrates when its under load. at about 2200 rpm, free revving doesnt vibrate. at 2200 rpm in 2nd and 3rd its got a vibration and a very light metallic rattle.

i have checked the engine mounts and the rubber is pretty much sitting on the bottom plate. new ones there is almost and inch between the bottom plate and the rubber. so even if these are not causing the vibration, they still need replacing anyhow.

From all the td5's I've been in, they ALL have a slight vibration at those revs. some more noticable than others. Some had it from factory. I've heard many say theirs doesn't have it but it's just that they don't know what to listen out for.

**Rosscoe68** · 24th March 2010, 08:57 AM

replaced my mounts . i ended up using non genuine mounts at first and that was a bad mistake. made itshake and vibrate like a 1940's willy's. changed to genuine mounts and much smoother. with the non genuine mounts the rattle at 2100 revs was gone, but the car vibrated that much it was like sitting on a vibrator. genuine mounts are much smoother but the rattle came back. 99% sure its the flex pipe just below the turbo in the exhaust.

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