Thread: Td5 engine mounts

Ean, did it make a world of difference? It sure did for me......

What were the indications that you had to change them? Extra vibration upon had excelleration, driveline issues, noise? Or was it just a visual inspection?

Angus

Gday All,The car used to viabrate at idol that bad the spotties and antenna would rattle, the gearshift was noisy and never felt right,I noticed it worse when sitting in the back.When the car was driving it seemed fine.I read the thread about looking underneath and there should be a gap between the mount and the rubber inside, well mine was touching the mount.
It is a totally different car, even my daughter commented about it and when the music is as loud as they have it , its saying something.
Would definately reccommend looking at the mount rubber as Pohm66 said to do.As stoked with the difference.
Cheers Ean

Thanks Ean. This is my next task.

Done tyres, shocks and steering damper and the difference is amazing. I can not only see the rubber through the hole in the bottom of the mount but I can push the rubber in a couple of centimetres.

Did you get yours from Land Rover Aus? I am trying to find the best possible price as I have spent a packet, albeit well worth it, in the last two weeks.

Cheers
Caine

Hi Caine,done the same to mine, new bilsteins, steering damper, tyres filters, the list goes on.. I could also push my rubbers back-in on the mounts. I got mine from Triumph rover in SA but managed to get a set from a car that had done 10k so got them for $150 pair, think they cost about that each brand new.. I've found that for me in Darwin that Triumph Rover are as cheap as anyone.
If you are doing it yourself, follow the steps in the tutorial section, but dont be surprised by how high you have to jack the engine as the new mounts are alot higher than the ones you remove.I made the mistake of looking at the engine from the front when it was jacked up to do the Turbo side and was shocked. If you have a dual battery on that side you will have to remove it and the tray. I also found it easier to remove the fuel cooler bottom bolts from underneath,but that could just be me.
Goodluck with it..
Cheers Ean

My D2 Td5 was vibrating badly around 1700 to 1800rpm usualy when powering up. It would also do it revving the engine whilst not moving that sort of ruled out the propshafts. (Cardon)

Had done the Injector loom and cleaned out oil in the main loom at a previous time

Climbed under took a look at the engine mounts. The rubbers were sitting on the base.

My better half and myself installed a new set of Genuine LR mounts. $270 plus tax a pair and yes we were offered cheaper non genuines but was happy to pay that price for LR ones

Took us the better part of a day ,we are re- TIRED so whats the hurry .

Road tested today. Vast improvement still got a little vibration but at higher RPM not nearly as bad as it was.

Thanks for the tips fellas, we also gave the RAVE way a miss, (Am not saying he RAVE way is incorrect but there are short cuts) only difference maybe a bit over cautious but I undid the bolt at the steel coolant lines at the chassis bracket under the radiator it semed to be under strain when we jacked the engine right up. Apart from that A1.OK
Cheers George & Pauline

Guys a question for those who have replaced the mounts,

I done mine a few days ago, and through the speed range etc its DEF much better, but at idle you can feel a LOT more in the cabin.

I put this down to the mounts being a lot tighter, maybe they will loosen up a bit ?

Upon inspection of mine both had collapsed and were EASY to wiggle by hand when I had got them out, the new ones were very difficult to "wiggle" as they are obviously not worn. The old ones had both dropped significantly as well, but it was smoother at idle with the old ones ?

Any thoughts / opinons on how they were / are now when idling ?

Mate, very interesting. All vibrations from the engine should be reduced as new mounts isolate the engine better. Are the replacement mounts genuine? If you replaced mounts using the "raise engine" method, could you have moved or stretched something, causing vibration to transfer accross to the chassis/body? Maybe the gearbox mounts need replacing as well? Let us know...