Thread: Td5 oil pump bolt

Originally Posted by Ean Austral

but can sleep easy now.

and thats the most important bit

Originally Posted by Ean Austral

Gday All, checked my pump bolt last nite (2001 model) and glad to say was tight as I could have done it.Car has 200k up now so looks like I must,ve got one good 1 from the production line.Took me 2.5 on my own but can sleep easy now.
Cheers Ean

So you have to remove the sump pan to do this????
Any clearance issues when removing, things to look out for??
Cheers Lionel

I recently followed the advice on this forum with removing one side of the steering arm and cross brace and a few bits and jacking up high on the frame. The tricky bit is not to rush the actual removal of the sump to prevent damage to the surfaces, oil pickup pipe. Like a puzzle, just slowly work out the sump and the rest is easy and well worth it even to ensure nothing is in that sump as well.

Gday All, I never removed the sump totally, once I undone the sump bolts the sump rested down on the diff and cross member, the sump falls far enough to see the whole oil pump gear and the bolt sits in the middle of the gear.There's enough room to to fit a 10mm socket on the bolt head and am sure it could be removed and either changed or re-loctited with the sump in that position.I couldnt move the bolt so I just repositioned the sump using the same gasket, put some gasket goo on the pipe that goes to the centifical filter and bolted it all back up.Whilst it was sitting on the diff I removed the sump plug and pumped about half the drained oil into the sump to flush out any stuff that may have settled in there, and the angle it sat on im sure anything would've come out..
Cheers Ean. ..If

I have an 03 TD5, is it true that Rover had fixed the Oil Pump bolt problem by then or is it still an ongoing problem. I would be very greatfull to get comment on this as I only recently was told of this problem and it is of some concern. Thanks

Its probably worth checking just in case. There are reports of later cars with the issue.

p.s welcome to the forum

Rgds
Pete

Relocked mine last year 200 Defender, it was fine bloody hard do undo and evidence of locking compound.
Dennis

Yep, I was sleeping uneasily as well ....so I did the fix last week.
I have had the car since new and it was in the "dangerous " year range and has 115k on the clock.
here is a step by step guide
Replace the oil pump bolt in a TD5
and there is also one on Aulro ..do a search on TD5 Oil Pump Bolt.

My Job:...sorry no Pics.
Interesting that one SUMP bolt was missing and a couple were only finger tight...probably all those corrugations en route to Cape York a few years ago.

Access:
Loosened front wheel nuts.
Using a Trolley jack, lifted car on front axle housing and supported with 6 Ton axle stands on level section of chassis under A Pillar near front tie-down points.
Removed Front wheels.
Lowered jack/axle housing until shockers at full stretch...raised slighty and fitted second pair of smaller 3 Ton axle stand under outer ends of axle.
Car was stable.

Drained sump oil. Removed plastic windage-tray(5 screws) under Radiator/crank pulley.

Being an Auto, I loosened oil cooler pipe clamps to allow flexing.

Removed centrifugal filter corrugated drain pipe from side of sump.

Removed sump bolts...use a piece of cardboard and poke long rear bolts through this to keep correct placement/orientation. Front and side bolts are the same.


I did not remove any steering Damper or steering control/panhard rods.
But..
Because of the way I had the car on stands I needed to loosen brackets holding metal Radiator/cooling pipes ( under that windage-tray) to allow flexing so that corner of sump would clear. .....PITA

Sump slipped off easily but would not clear the oil pickup for full removal.
(So removal of Damper etc may have been better???)
However PLENTY of room to work.
Easy to clean sump/block mating surfaces and fit new gasket.

The ( $10K) bolt:
It was tight..Phew.... But I removed it ..no obvious signs of locktite???
Cleaned Internal threads with Acetone and a few cotton buds. Cleaned bolt, loctite and reassembled.

Torqued to 25 Newton Metres ( approx 18.5 Ft Lbs/221 Inch/Lbs)..plus a little bit extra. Gear and chain will rotate when it is really tight!!!

Refitted sump...remember the circular tightening sequence ( centre outwards) Diagram available on Rave and on other How-to links.

Like Medibank
I-feel-better-now.
Cheers
Bob