Thread: CDL - photo's or drawings of activating lever

Thanks Shaker
Pity no one has a drawing or one of the brackets loose so a copy could be made

I reckon I could make one from Bundalenes photo
stud holes give some guidance to dimensions etc .. will do that if we get no joy re any drawings or measurements etc etc
cheers
Nobby

Are you guys referring to the bracket that bolts to the transfer case ?

this one ?


If so it can be bought from land rover Part number: IGU000030

Just to throw "another" scenario in, you can use the "full" D1 setup in a D2 as well. Photos here of a recent install I did on a friends TD5

The Guinea pig motor



View from below of the "correct" auto parts completed install



The bottom connection on the transfer box spigot



View showing the "fixed" High / Low lever connection. (here you can see the "manual version" vertical link) Does not work on a Auto box as it sits in the wrong place and requires some "fettling" to try and line it up.



Picture shows the lever mounting we had to buy (bottom Shiny casting) as the "original" was from a Manual boxed car and does not fit a Auto box. You MUST get an Auto linkage for an Auto car and vice versa for a manual, how ever ALL the parts can still be bought from Land Rover if your "missing" something.



And it works REALLY well, infact its easier to select the CDL than with an "03/04" linkage

I fitted a D1 linkage to a D2 back in January 2000
After putting up with the NVH it introduced into the cabin for 5 years
I removed it and fitted the D2A lever and the cabin is so much better for it!

Not saying don't do it, just be aware that it's a little noisier.

Originally Posted by NobbyTD5

Thanks Shaker
Pity no one has a drawing or one of the brackets loose so a copy could be made

I reckon I could make one from Bundalenes photo
stud holes give some guidance to dimensions etc .. will do that if we get no joy re any drawings or measurements etc etc
cheers
Nobby

Its dead easy to make the hole for the cdl spindle only took about 20 mins to do and doesn't need to be very accurate at all.

You are basically fitting over a shaft that has had the 2 sides ground flat. The dimensions are approx 14mm long and the flat sides are exactly 10mm apart.

I just drilled 2 holes and then used a flat file between the 2 holes.

Urban Panzer
That is exactly the part I am after.. so will try with that part number in hand.... ps great photos again!

other comments and Tombie's comment re NHV are why I would hesitate on a D1 linkage

I would like to keep it close to original in dimension so that if and when a D2a lever become cheaper one day.... ( I live in hope!) I can retrofit

Nobby

PS Urban Panzer do you have the part number for the other part on the T/C, the lever ???

Which bit do you mean exactly ?

The small lever that actaully sits over the spigot ? if so its part of the CDL cable when referring to an "04" linkage.

I do know that Ashcroft are now making these to go with their new lever / setup...

And just for info, Both me and My friend with the D1 linkage installed dont feel its that much more noisy tbh (I wouldnt hear it over my straight thru exhaust anyway if I had one lol). I think a lot depends on how well you fit / seal the rubber boot and make sure when you cut the hole for the lever that its all well clear of everything once re-installed.

I currently have a flat bar leaver operated from outside the vehicle (under the drivers door) as a temp set up.

I looked at using a choke cable but they flex too much to push the plate on the CDL back and thus did not work – 2 cables for sale if anyone wants them!

I now have a 13 ft marine control cable ($37) which are stronger and will not flex which I need to fabricate brackets for both ends. This cable is similar to the genuine part in terms of stiffness. It will work off a leaver under the dash with cable coming via the fire wall

Will post pictures when I get a weekend to do this in

Keith

I just posted in the Technical/Tutorial section some pics and a description of what I have now set up for my D2 using a marine control cable and scrap metal I had lying around.

This may give other ideas - hope it is useful
And it works - only thing I will add is some soft rubber to keep dirt out
Keith