Gday All, talked my dad into getting his bolt checked finally, on his late 2004 D2a and has just done 100k, the bolt was hanging on by 2 threads.His friend learnt the hard way on his 2001 D2 so its obvious that no engine date seems exempt from this problem.
I wouldve thought that the dealers may have included this in thier 100k service.
Just thought i'd pass this on as his was one of the last one's before the D3..
Cheers Ean
100k or not.....no matter what the k's.....get it done as soon as possible.
After seeing a few threads about this, have been talked in to it, will research and do it and post findings
is there a specific thread with how to pictures and the like to do this task?
I dont have a digital cameraso I can't volunteer to do one
Hay Ewe
in a nutshell..
drain the oil
remove the 4 13mm head bolts mating the sump to the bell housing (50nm)
remove the plethora of 10mm headed bolts holding the sump to the engine(20nm)
remove the sump
remove the gasket
clean up the oil that spills and drips
remove the 13mm head bolt thats in the middle of the drive gear on the pump
clean both the bolt and its hole(25nm)
coat the bolt liberally with loctite 243/242
place a small bead of form a gasket on the junction of the timing case to the block (2 places) and where the rear main bolts up to the block (2 places) and run a bead along the back of the rear main where the gasket will contact it.
Assemble by reading that list backwards and subsitute remove with replace.
use a new gasket and once its bedded in and all the bolts are corectly tightened wait 1 hr before adding oil and starting the engine.
while you wait this is an ideal time to change the filters, serpentine belt and all the other fun things that you do during a major service.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
There is an excellent thread at http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...lt-thread.html.
Stephen.
Dave,the torque on the oil pump drive sproket bolt,in the Land Rover workshop manal,VDR100090,which i purchased when i got my first TD5 in '99,is stated at 25nm.
I presume the torque in your post is correct,& if it is,maybe a lot of these were not torqued correctly in the factory.
It does say to use Loctite 242 on it.
I was gonna do mine using the torque in the manual,maybe i am lucky i havent.I have looked for the torque in the many posts on this site but cant find it.
This is also a good question for JC
NO, thats my bad....
I was on the phone talking someone through doing a hub bearing while I typed that one up.
I must have mis typed what I was telling him and what I put on the post.
you try doing that nut up to 70nM and its going to be very very close to just snapping if it doesnt actually snap.
Ive edited the post to what the figures are in the RAVE including the torques for the sump bolts....
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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