Thread: Power loss on hill climb

Originally Posted by biggin

I have just noticed that the air intake duct to the inlet manifold is actually not connected. The hose clamp must have been loose causing the plastic duct to come away. Is it possible that this has caused my problem of losing power on a gradient, rather than having a fuel pump problem.
What would be the symptoms of not pulling air through the airflow meter.

That'll do it .... No air through MAF = no motor working

Now drive it back up that hill

Mike

You were spot on Mike.
Took disco for a spin up One Speck track yesterday with no problems at all. That is until I lost all three bolts and gasket on the drivers side exhaust manifold where it connects to the exhaust pipe. Can anyone tell me what size the bolts are? 3/8"BSF or something I would guess. Also were can I pick up a gasket in a hurry.

Originally Posted by biggin

That is until I lost all three bolts and gasket on the drivers side exhaust

.... That cracked me up ...

I ended going up to Rovercraft to but the studs / nuts & gaskets ... Buy some spares as they are always snapping off when you try to replace the exhaust or tighten them up

Can't help on the size but .... Go into your "tin of spare bolts" ... find a thread that fits / then go to repco and buy 3 matching bolts .... & washers for packing ... and a tub of exhaust putty as a temp solution

I think the thread is a "Course Metric"

Mike

It seems the exhaust manifold has a stripped thread (5/16"unf I've been told) where it joins to the exhaust on the drivers side. Of course it is the blind thread on front that is damaged, otherwise I could have simply used a nut and bolt to fix it. Can you drill and tap these things, and if so, do you have to remove the manifold. I notice it requires some stupid shaped tool to undo the bolts into the head. Oh yeh, does anyone know what the recommended thread size for re-tapping. I'll get this thing right if it kills me!

Originally Posted by biggin

.... Can you drill and tap these things, and if so, do you have to remove the manifold. I notice it requires some stupid shaped tool to undo the bolts

Thread sizes??? .... Dunno ... can't be sure .... but follow the bottom suggestions and all should be answered

Just to clarify ... The 3 studs at the bottom of the manifold .. Joining the 2 piece exhaust "downpipes" to the cast iron manifold .... This is what you stripped??

If so ... Yep ... you have to remove the manifold to re-tap new studs

STEP 1 ..... I bought the new studs complete with nuts from Rovercraft

I went to Repco and looked in their bargain bin and found a Tap set for $10 ... Metric set is what I used ....

I bought brand new 1/8 drill for a pilot hole .. and a brand new drill for a hole for tapping the new thread

Just use a file or a disc to smooth out the old broken stud flush to the manifold .... Don't worry about removing it

SO .... Buy the studs first ... go to Repco second ... you can use their bolt & nut rack to find exactly what thread it is, as they actually have a sample set to test on



That funny shaped bolt on the "manifold to head" .... is most probably the same shape as a standard Sidchrome socket set ..... So happy unbolting



I don't think you actually use any gaskets for the manifold to head section ... just a smear of High Temp Sealant

But you do use a gasket, on the manifold, to that 2 piece down-pipe section
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A little tip for you .... To undo and redo up the 3 nuts on the downpipes ... Do it from lying under the car ..... Use a 3/8 socket set .... Use those deep sockets // not the standard lengths ..... use all the extensions you can get .... about 300 to 400mm long ... So much easier /// I bought all from the Infamous "Super shop" .... and life is so much easier

and Tip 2 for you is .... BEWARE of the "starter motor" side .... you will notice the space between the Positive terminal and your tools can be very close

Mike

Thanks Mike, but I couldn't have explained myself properly. All three studs fell out of the under side of the manifold when up the bush. When replacing with new studs last night, I noticed the front one would not tighten as the thread in the manifold had stripped. I need to re-tap to a larger size, but don't want to go too big in case it weakens the body of the manifold, and not too small in case it strips again. I was thinking maybe 10mm. I not sure how much meat there is around the stud hole.

Originally Posted by biggin

Thanks Mike, but I couldn't have explained myself properly. All three studs fell out of the under side of the manifold when up the bush. When replacing with new studs last night, I noticed the front one would not tighten as the thread in the manifold had stripped. I need to re-tap to a larger size, but don't want to go too big in case it weakens the body of the manifold, and not too small in case it strips again. I was thinking maybe 10mm. I not sure how much meat there is around the stud hole.

Mmmm ... well you had me typing ...

Tap in and install a "insert thread" .... This means you can then just reinstall the original stud

.... Keysert Key-Locking Screw Thread Inserts

....

.... Also ... Given this "high-lite" .... Leave the manifold on .... You should be able to do a "retap thread" from lying under the car

You just need extensions on the end of the "Tap"

Mike

Thanks again Mike,

All fixed

I found a Heli-coil kit at work, so I pulled the manifold out last night(thought it would be easier that way), fixed it up - job done! Only took 90 minutes.

Now that she's going well, its time to start a project. I'll start with a CDL, I think.

From what I've read here, it will make a big difference climbing the steep hills we have just up the road.

Cheers,
Alan.