Thoughts re: front prop shaft failures

**crash** · 2nd June 2009, 02:45 PM

I have been thinking about front prop shaft failures for awhile and have come to the conclusion that most have occured after fitting aftermarket suspension and it is the increased driveshaft angle that is one of the contributing factors.
My thought is

and have not found time to crawl under my Disco to investigate)1) Would it be possible to put a spacer in somewhere between the transfer case and frame and transmission and frame, effectively lowering the transfer case and decreasing the drive line angle?
2)How thick of a spacer would be required?
3)And what would be some of the other possible negative reasons not to do it eg: transfer and transmission oil levels would not be accurate.
4)How hard would it to build a driveshaft safety hoop to prevent damage in the event of failure?

Discussion please

**Scouse** · 2nd June 2009, 02:48 PM

Originally Posted by crash

I have been thinking about front prop shaft failures for awhile and have come to the conclusion that most have occured after fitting aftermarket suspension and it is the increased driveshaft angle that is one of the contributing factors.

I've seen dozens get replaced through here & 99% are standard cars. It's a lack of grease issue rather than angle issue IMO.

mike 90 RR · 2nd June 2009, 03:15 PM

Originally Posted by crash

Would it be possible to put a spacer in somewhere .... lowering the transfer case and decreasing the drive line angle?

Good theory but ... You lift the car so you can achieve more ground clearance ... and now you want to lower the driveline

... Defeats the purpose

As Scouse says .... grease, grease & more grease ... oh, and move the A/C drain pipe

Mike

**gone bush** · 2nd June 2009, 08:37 PM

I replaced mine with a greasable one - no dramas

**rick130** · 2nd June 2009, 08:58 PM

and there is the Hardy Spicer HD greasable version too that Tombie has posted about in the past.
Fixes the problem properly I believe.

**Blknight.aus** · 3rd June 2009, 06:33 PM

replace it with a greaseable one when it starts to vibrate or chirp at you.

Move the aircon drain while your at it and yes a shroud can be fitted up, I have the concept sketch of how I want to build one up BUT I dont have a D2 to play with for the mock up.

**Baffle** · 3rd June 2009, 06:41 PM

Use mine Blknight.aus for a test dummy if you want, Im working close to Ipswich

MickS · 4th June 2009, 09:17 PM

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

As Scouse says .... grease, grease & more grease ... oh, and move the A/C drain pipe

x 5

**Slunnie** · 5th June 2009, 05:46 PM

Originally Posted by rick130

and there is the Hardy Spicer HD greasable version too that Tombie has posted about in the past.
Fixes the problem properly I believe.

I've just broken one of the Tom Woods 1310 equivilents At least it lasted 2.5 years instead of 1 for me.

**rick130** · 5th June 2009, 10:46 PM

The local Hardie Spicer HD joints use a 114-2501 Japanese 25R style uni. (HS Double Cardan pt. # 800-R2540)
28.58mm OD bearing caps x 54 mm from circlip to circlip on the inside of the bearing caps, or B2 dimension in their catalogue and the grease nipple is in the caps. Can't work out what the B1 dimension is, and it doesn't say in the catalogue.

Looks like the OE ones are 26.99mm OD caps x 74.61mm across the outside of the caps/cross (B1 dimension) (1300 series uni's)

Looking at the HS catalogue, 1310 uni's are 26.99mm OD bearing cap x 81.76mm (B1 dimension) across the outside of the cross.

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