Conventional wisdom would say stick with OE stuff, but I think if you can source a good quality aftermarket pump (ie not cheap chinese knock off) then you should be right.
Angus
Hi all,
Looks like my water pump is on the way out.Does anyone have any comment regarding genuine and non-genuine pumps.
There is a big price difference between the two.
Cheers Garry
Conventional wisdom would say stick with OE stuff, but I think if you can source a good quality aftermarket pump (ie not cheap chinese knock off) then you should be right.
Angus
I fitted a non-genuine UK made pump I bought on a recent trip to England.
I also got the o-ring kit just in case (the pump's supplied seals looked a bit suspect). Total cost about $70. The original leak was due to failure of the small front o-ring with coolant dripping from the weep holes.
The new pump dripped during air-bleeding of the system, without even firing the engine.
The vehicle is a daily driver so I refitted the original pump with the new (LR genuine) seals and hasn't shown further leakage in 10k. This OEM pump had 250k on it and had no noticeable axial or radial play. The new has noticeable axial slop and is now a highly suspect spare of last resort.
This is why many say go genuine.
Jason
genuine.
see above AND the last one I looked at changing had the pully boss set forwards about 3mm which would have been merry hell on the serpentine belt.
I had to leave the job as I dont carry a spare one, it was a sunday special and no-one who was open had one and I couldnt reschedule in a realistic time frame.....
$140 down for the call out + whatever it cost to get it towed and fitted.
Dave
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