I use the strap type, but I find coming in from between the motor and the down pipe on the fire wall side works best for me.
Can't see how draining the sump first would make any differance on start up. It will still have an empty filter/s ?
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I use the strap type, but I find coming in from between the motor and the down pipe on the fire wall side works best for me.
Can't see how draining the sump first would make any differance on start up. It will still have an empty filter/s ?
Thanks Mike. Somewhere here on the forum (I think) I saw someone talk about relocating the filter to a chasis rail ... and changing the filter to the std old Z9 ... apparently much bigger, much cheaper ... might be worth the effort.
Mr Urban Panzer ... I'll keep an eye on it. I guess a _little_ nip up is probably a good thing ... and thanks for your Disco2.uk web site ... that just makes all the disco specifics sooooo easy for us first timers. You're a bloody ledgend mate :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Hi Graeme ... where does it say that in RAVE ?? ... there's alot of stuff in RAVE and I haven't covered a 1/4 of it yet.
The oil pressure light stayed on for 1 to 2 sec's longer than a standard start ... a 5w oil travels pretty quick at 58psi. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but when you do an oil change, you drain the sump, and as the level of oil in the pan drops there's a vacum developed above the falling oil level ... small, but none-the-less a vacum ... which may draw oils backwards under vacum out of the oil galleries ... IF air can get in to break the vacum ... If changing the filter first will allow air into the system to assist the drain of the oil galleries, then maybe I can understand, but I tend to think it's not an issue ... ?? Is there a non-return valve in the oil pump ??
Edited to add ... according to RAVE, there's a non-return valve on the oil gallery entry to the head ... page 12-1-34 or there abouts.
Feral ... yep :) No need to pay someone if you can do it (properly) yourself. I'll check the Transmax out. Thanks.
BMKal ... Excellent idea ! I will knock one up at work. That will work easy as it will work around either side of the turbo oil drain line from underneath. Sweet ! :)
Gary ... Looks like a more sensible tool for this job than my "ring" type tool. Thanks. We could use these at work as well (small engine repair & servicing).
Pedro ... You Betcha ! I'd checked the complete Disco2.uk web site over long before I bought my Disco ... It's an excellent reference site !
... and, Loving It ! :)
So, I changed the ATF on the weekend. Pretty straight forward. Dropped exactly 4L of old ATF ... still reddish with a brown tinge ... no lumpies or foreign bits on the drain pan and no burnt smell. Good!! :) Topped up with 4L Valvoline ATF DX-3 and went for a drive ... shifts a little smoother (not that it wasn't smooth before), but the torque converter now locks up sooner than it was before ... hopefully another change will get it locking up closer to the stated 72km/hr instead of the 95 it was doing ... and now currently about 80-82km/Hr ... once locked, it doesn't unlock until 72km/hr (1750rpm) ... old or new fluid. I can see why locking up below this 1750rpm might be an issue with labouring the engine ... ?? If I drive like a grey nomad the TC lockup seems to take forever with more road speed required ... If I drive with a bit of gusto, she locks up pretty quickly not long after 80km/hr.
4L out of 9.7L means I've only changed around 40% of the ATF .... I'll do a weeks running then probably drop the pan, change the filter, and add another 4L of fresh ATF ... which will leave around 3.35L of the old original fluid ... then a 3rd change will leave around 1.4L or 15% of the old fluid ... and that will do until the next 10k oil & filters change where I'll change the ATF to Transmax Z ... if the budget will allow :)
Coolant flush/change (Nulon OAT), diffs, transfer case, power steering, brake fluids to go ...
Fluids :)
Where did you buy Transmax Z? I couldnt find in Supercheapauto.Quote:
Originally Posted by feral
and what do you use for Transfer, front & rear axle?
I am planning to do my first oil change as well. Thanks
anybody that sells castrol oils,,,
*sticker shock warning*
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/7...g-rick130.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by dearot
OK, so I finally got around to changing the Auto filter. Thanks to Urban Panzer again for the great tutorial.
Dropped the pan, and the sump had no lumpies or objects in it, but the magnet had a huge collection of black/grey magnetic dust like stuff attached to it ... heaps actually. The old filter shows some junk stuck to the screen (that I could see through the inlet pipe hole) ... from the amount of magnetic stuff on the magnet, and the car only being 120k old, me thinks the trans' filter has never been changed :eek:
Had the pan off for around 3hrs so alot more oil dripped and drained, cleaned the pan, fitted new gasket, fitted sump magnet and bolted her back up, and got 5L of fresh AFT in ... so now it's around 65-70% fresh ... drives much nicer. Noticeable change in auto smoothness.
Definitley not a hard job, and for pumping the fluid in I'm using a 1L pump-up pressurized garden sprayer with the nozzle removed and a length of 10mm clear vinyl tube attached, with a 13mm poly tube barbed elbow (with barbs ground off) in the end ... sits perfectly in the filler hole ... makes 1 man auto fluid changes very easy :)
... now, the 2x unattached wires I found at the back of the trans' pan, next to the LHS gearbox mount :o ... that's another post.
Diffs and transfer next.