Differential Breather Kit

if it is just a push in, should I seal the new one with som silicone or something?

Matt

Just remember, no matter how good the breather:

Hot diff + cold water = oil in housings.

Stop and let them cool a few minutes before dunking.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by p38arover

Not all the plastic would come from the same source or even be the same type so it's drawing a long bow to claim the breather material is crap. As I said, my '95 RR's breathers are still in excellent condition.

At least LR come standard with breathers.

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Yep, on a D2 had the brittle radiator return hose, and had the gearbox or transfer case hose degrade aswell, so fully understand. For the expense involved, its worth replacing from the source.

regards

Nick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Just remember, no matter how good the breather:

Hot diff + cold water = oil in housings.

Stop and let them cool a few minutes before dunking.

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Hot diff + cold water = oil in housings = lovely chocmilk colored oil

Damaged breather lines also cause this...trust me!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Just remember, no matter how good the breather:

Hot diff + cold water = oil in housings.

Stop and let them cool a few minutes before dunking.

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After a drive up the beach we will be stoping for a good 3 to 4 hours to wait for the tide to go down before we can cross the creek but with the new bearther lines should I drill and tap a right angle fitting in there to seal it properly?

cheers

matt

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Just remember, no matter how good the breather:

Hot diff + cold water = oil in housings.

Stop and let them cool a few minutes before dunking.

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For water to get in that easy oil must be already leaking out.

Had LOTS of swim sessions in mine, not an drop of water been in either of the diffs yet.

REF earlier posts, the gearbox and transfer box are banjo connections, but you can replace the plastic pipe by pushing it onto the brass fitting, but tbh not worth it, they are already in the engine bay, just extend them from there if you want.

The most important one to do is the rear axle which only goes up the rear wheel arch, that ideally needs replacing and either running up the rear, inside the rear outer panels where the light looms are, or as I did run a new one all the way forward into the engine bay and or up the snorkle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Urban Panzer

For water to get in that easy oil must be already leaking out.

Had LOTS of swim sessions in mine, not an drop of water been in either of the diffs yet.

REF earlier posts, the gearbox and transfer box are banjo connections, but you can replace the plastic pipe by pushing it onto the brass fitting, but tbh not worth it, they are already in the engine bay, just extend them from there if you want.

The most important one to do is the rear axle which only goes up the rear wheel arch, that ideally needs replacing and either running up the rear, inside the rear outer panels where the light looms are, or as I did run a new one all the way forward into the engine bay and or up the snorkle.

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do you have any photos of gear box end?

I like your little manifold, I am doing the same with the snorkle being my end goal.

Cheers
Matt

Urban,

That's not quite true and diffs run much hotter over here some days.

The breather is a restriction when very hot diffs hot chilled water. Eg high country tracks.

If cooling rate exceeds flow capacity of the tube then water goes in.