Air filter box td5

Hamish71 · 31st May 2010, 09:07 AM

Originally Posted by alien d2

Thanks for this mate, you just yourslf another cup off tea

Could explain water in the bottom of my air box not long ago

That tape you used is similar to some orange stuff sold here, I carry it to do temporary repairs on hoses ect,

Cheers

I saw it in Bunnings the other day. Expensive for tape, but pretty cheap...something like $10-15 a roll. Says it is "good" for emergency repairs to things like oil and fluid hoses as well. Might have to put some in the "spares" box.

**Urban Panzer** · 31st May 2010, 09:55 AM

Originally Posted by discowhite

why do you want to seal the drain valve?? its there to drain water out

you do realise that when the car is running that a small amount of air passes out the drain causing the soft rubber ends to vibrate keeping them clean and sealed up when the cars off.
also if you get that deep in water the pressure of the water will force the rubber lips closed.

cheers phil

Well, yours may well be different, but on all the TD5's I "mess" with including my own, that rubber dump valve losses its abilty to stay "shut", it sort of spreads with age, and take it from me, if you go deep wading a LOT of water goes straight up into the airbox. If the snorkel / tubing / intake etc are well sealed to start with, there is no need for a drain valve.

**John W** · 31st May 2010, 07:52 PM

I keep a bulldog clip to put on the duckbill drain if going in a little deep. I also wonder if during a heavy down pour of rain that there must be some water get down the snorkel and can't hurt to have a working drain. Again it is quite possible to splash water into a forward facing snorkel scope on a water crossing but guess my clip would not help that. My D2 is 1999 and the lips on the drain have not spread so far.

**discowhite** · 1st June 2010, 07:46 AM

if the rubber drain is perished why not change it like any other servicable item?
i do agree about the point of deep wading though, but ide also freak out about the ecu as well

cheers phil

**PhilipA** · 23rd October 2013, 07:17 PM

OK I just had a look at this thread after pulling and pulling with no result , so after reading I pulled harder and it released.

So I chopped out the "cyclone" and filled in the gaps in the housing.
I can see the theory that the cyclone flings water to the sides and then the lip on the end of the tube collects the water and it drains via the burper.

However I found that any water down a snorkel, falls out of suspension on it's long trip and tends to dribble along the bottom of the snorkel and into the air cleaner.
Before I put it together tomorrow I intend to chop off most of the reverse lip on the tube and leave maybe 1/4 of the circumference at the bottom, so that any water entering will still be caught and drained. I have silasticed up about 2/3 of the burper and am holding it together to dry with a clamp, so that any water will still drain but only enter slowly.

There is another drain outside the tube which is a small square box thingo that you can see in the above pics. I have silasticed that shut about 3/4 , but left a small hole.
There was NO evidence of any water marks in the bottom of the air cleaner or any marking of teh cleaner element after driving in heavy rain back from Qld last week so the water drains in the snorkel head seem to do a good job ( if kept clear).
Will it make a difference and could you tell? Who knows?
Regards Philip A

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