Traxide headlight kit

**dobbo** · 15th November 2009, 03:31 PM

Why are the kits piggybacking off the existing wiring loom and not replacing it all from the steering column? If your going to use uprated wiring on the rest of the circuit why not use heavier gauge wires on the original switch when most of the faults come from this area of the loom regardless or not of relayed circuits?

**dmdigital** · 15th November 2009, 03:39 PM

The kits make the headlight loom a very low current draw as all the light switch does is trigger the relay. The other side of the relay wires the lights back to the battery and so takes the current load. Thus the heavier wiring in the kit. The D1, D2 and Defender's (pre-07) don't have a relayed headlight system.

drivesafe can add anything I've left out of the explination.

**dobbo** · 15th November 2009, 03:48 PM

Originally Posted by dm_td5

The kits make the headlight loom a very low current draw as all the light switch does is trigger the relay. The other side of the relay wires the lights back to the battery and so takes the current load. Thus the heavier wiring in the kit. The D1, D2 and Defender's (pre-07) don't have a relayed headlight system.

drivesafe can add anything I've left out of the explination.

I know how a relay works. Reason for the question is there have been a few persons with crap switches or the wiring from the switch to the headlight part of the circuit (not all of them due to voltage draw, not me fortunately, touch wood, but not just old cars either) . If your upgrading the existing circuit why not replace the entire lot with good quality wiring? Is it for warrantee reasons for newer cars, keeping costs down or idiot proofing the installation?

**dmdigital** · 15th November 2009, 04:03 PM

I think drivesafe has intentionally made this a "plug and play" kit. What you're talking about is, as you say, a lot more involved. If there was any doubt about the rest of the existing circuit I'd be replacing that anyway.

I think you're right, manufacturers put the minimal wiring size required to carry the load put on it. It would certainly save them money.

Now as for crap switches... why does the 110 headlight switch come to mind

**drivesafe** · 15th November 2009, 05:33 PM

Hi dobbo, as dm_td5 posted, the existing wiring does not need to be upgraded as the kit removes all high currents from the existing wire loom and headlight switch.

Most people with faulty switches find that because the kit removes the current load from the switch, it no longer gets hot and as such, works fine and if they have already replaced a faulty switch, with the kit installed, the should never need to replace the headlight switch again.

There are very few cases where a problem persists with the existing were loom once the kit is installed so there is no logistical reason to add both additional wiring and cost to the kits as they are now.

Hope that explains it for you dobbo!

Thread: Traxide headlight kit

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