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Thread: Help me with my engine dilemma

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Help me with my engine dilemma

    So I have had a 2000 D2 (V8 auto)since June '09. Pre inspected and all seemed ok. First issue was the heater wasn't working, when checked the pipes (not hoses) had been plugged and had been there a while judging by the color of them. Spoke to the dealer and despite not having a warranty etc was good enough to cough up for the cost of a new heater matrix.

    So in Sept a single event of rising temp noticed at lights and stopped withing 100m at next servo and checked coolant and took about three l of water to top up. All back to normal for next couple of mths.

    Forward to November and trip up to Port Mac, Grafton and Tamworth. When checking out of the hotel had the disco idling with the A/c on and kids in car. Came back and the temp gauge is at max and light on (fab). So drive to the closest rad/cooling place and for a mere $75- they went over the whole thing, changes thermostat (had a spare) pressure test, fix a very slight weep in rad (only under pressure). Whole way home and 'till Christmas was great.

    2 Days before Christmas changed plugs and leads, seemed to have slight miss and loss of power on hills where speed couldn't be maintained nless hitting the bottom at least at 110 and keep it moving otherwise it's down to 70 and second gear and embarrassingly wait to get to the top. Leave home and within 5 min major loss of power and had to pull over and it's all over with a sump full of oil.

    Tow home, BIG thanks to Peter at Range Parts, who else would come out at 2200hrs to tow you home? Sump full of water so strip down heads and replace gaskets etc.

    Two weeks later same thing again so this Aus day long weekend (didn't everyone get four days off?) Remove engine for more thorough diagnosis and head gaskets are perfect, liners don't move and are in place, timing cover gasket appeared to be ok. I have reassembled block/heads and t/cover with silastic around water and oil galleries and filled with dyed water to see if it leaks down, left for two nights while I cleaned and cleaned everything else. Leaked down approx 50ml over 2 nights so it's going somewhere (didn't eveaporate as I covered all openings).

    So looking at options.

    1. Rebuild existing block as 4.0l. Replace everything and hope it's fixed.
    2. Have another block available (3.9 older rangie block) needs machining and main caps so needs lineboring and cross drilling. Approx $1k work all up to bring up to spec.
    3. Have another 3.9 complete with caps so doesnt need as much work but doesn't have cross bolts.
    4. Have existing block machined for top hat liners. Quoted $3-3500 depending on who you talk to.
    5. Found a 4.6 short motor built up from machined and top hatlinered block polished crank, new rings and bearings. $3800- with wty.
    6. Found 4.6 built from 4.6 originated block with crank & rods only 10,000k's old and new rings and bearing and cam and bearings and lifters. Also complete from sump up including timing cover so only need to fit heads. $2200- with wty.

    Looking at no 6 due to balancing costs with desire for 4.6 and getting it back together as soon as possible. All advice, help and donations of time, money and parts that means I won't need to spend will be more than appreciated and potentially repaid in beer/wine.

    Regards
    Justin

  2. #2
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    closest rad/cooling place and for a mere $75- they went over the whole thing, changes thermostat (had a spare) pressure test, fix a very slight weep in rad (only under pressure). Whole way home and 'till Christmas was great.


    Tow home, BIG thanks to Peter at Range Parts, who else would come out at 2200hrs to tow you home? Sump full of water so strip down heads and replace gaskets etc.

    Two weeks later same thing again

    Remove engine for more thorough diagnosis and head gaskets are perfect, liners don't move and are in place, timing cover gasket appeared to be ok. I have reassembled block/heads and t/cover with silastic around water and oil galleries and filled with dyed water to see if it leaks down,

    left for two nights while I cleaned and cleaned everything else. Leaked down approx 50ml over 2 nights so it's going somewhere (didn't eveaporate as I covered all openings).
    When you noticed the perfect head gaskets .....

    Did you "surface face" the heads at a head shop when you first stripped it down??
    Did you get the heads Crack tested?? .......

    The other, is to get the block crack tested ......

    The other thing is ... don't "fix" leaky radiators, Replace or get them rodded properly

    Mike

  3. #3
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    Heads were presure tested and decked to level.

    The rad was one tube on the outside so sealing it up wasn't an issue for me.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Block change is in order here, I'd be happy at $2200 for the 4.6 option, as long as it has a warranty covering liner leakage...

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    I would go no6 also.
    Check if its a high comp motor, 4 bolt mains etc.

    In terms of performance the low and high comp made a big difference in my experience.

    I did a bit of head work at same time and choose a good towing cam, not sure what it was but right from idle almost to 2000rpm it really pulled hard and with the auto box changed gears just at the right time.
    On long trips sitting at the peak torque, on fuel not gas I got 10L/100. Not as good in town but that is another story.

    Good luck.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Heads were pressure tested and decked to level.

    The rad was one tube on the outside so sealing it up wasn't an issue for me. Not enough to warrant building a new one when I need to spend 3K for the engine.

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