Thread: D1 Smartbar on a D2

Just out of interest, how much does an ARB/TJM steel bar weigh?

For future ref, I have just fitted a secondhand D1 Smartbar to our 1999 D2.
It was a straight bolt on.
I did not need to cut the grill or anything.
(There is plenty of room for left right adjustment and maybe 5mm for up down adjustment in the mounting flanges, but I didn't need to change mine as it fitted perfectly as it was.)
I called Smartbar and they said the bar was okay to use on a D2 if it had the same airbag triggers and settings. They also said the supplied steel flanges bolt straight to the chassis (discard stock alum crush cans, no need for a foldable flange as in steel bars) as the absorbtion on impact is in the plastic as it deforms. I imagine if you used a crushable mount, the combined absorbtion would be far higher than stock and the airbags would not activate - plus you'd damage your grill. Not to start a spat with the steel guys, but this is one thing I like about a plastic bar, absorbtion then return to shape. After hitting a droughtmaster steer I imagine it would be RACQ time anyway.
The stock combi position and indicator lights were completely rusted out beyond salvaging. I was thinking of fitting foglights and then additional indicators but that would be ambiguous by ADR and I ran out of time. I found that Autobarn stock L.E.D. brand 12v LED combination pos and indic lights at $59 (?) each. They are 158mm between the screw holes (very closse to Smartbar lights). I bit the bullet and bought them. Used two three way Deutsch copy waterproof connectors (at Jaycar, Autobarn) and some five way Aussie made trailer cable (using only three, one for earth, one for indic and one for pos light; 5 amp rated as LEDs draw little current. I daisy chained each to the left and right fron indicator position light combi on the body. Earth is in this wire harness so you can fabricate a waterproof harness and avoid putting a dodgy earth screw in the body. The LED indicators won't need resistors because they adding current to the draw of the main (incandescent) indicators (you would need resistors only if replacing your main indicators with LED's as your current would drop and the winker switch would think low current meant a blown bulb and would flash quickly). The resistors get very hot apparently abd say to mount only on metal. Given this is a plastic bar it was handy that I disn't have to use them. I used the stock headlight washer hose from the stock bumper, cutting the washer ends and using silicon grease to force them onto the Smartbar's washers (thought of transferring the stock ones but they'd be too short/wrong angle). That way I could keep the stock plug to the washer reservoir. Just finished, test driving now.

Originally Posted by dolphinberserk

For future ref, I have just fitted a secondhand D1 Smartbar to our 1999 D2.
It was a straight bolt on.
I did not need to cut the grill or anything.
(There is plenty of room for left right adjustment and maybe 5mm for up down adjustment in the mounting flanges, but I didn't need to change mine as it fitted perfectly as it was.)
I called Smartbar and they said the bar was okay to use on a D2 if it had the same airbag triggers and settings. They also said the supplied steel flanges bolt straight to the chassis (discard stock alum crush cans, no need for a foldable flange as in steel bars) as the absorbtion on impact is in the plastic as it deforms. I imagine if you used a crushable mount, the combined absorbtion would be far higher than stock and the airbags would not activate - plus you'd damage your grill. Not to start a spat with the steel guys, but this is one thing I like about a plastic bar, absorbtion then return to shape. After hitting a droughtmaster steer I imagine it would be RACQ time anyway.
The stock combi position and indicator lights were completely rusted out beyond salvaging. I was thinking of fitting foglights and then additional indicators but that would be ambiguous by ADR and I ran out of time. I found that Autobarn stock L.E.D. brand 12v LED combination pos and indic lights at $59 (?) each. They are 158mm between the screw holes (very closse to Smartbar lights). I bit the bullet and bought them. Used two three way Deutsch copy waterproof connectors (at Jaycar, Autobarn) and some five way Aussie made trailer cable (using only three, one for earth, one for indic and one for pos light; 5 amp rated as LEDs draw little current. I daisy chained each to the left and right fron indicator position light combi on the body. Earth is in this wire harness so you can fabricate a waterproof harness and avoid putting a dodgy earth screw in the body. The LED indicators won't need resistors because they adding current to the draw of the main (incandescent) indicators (you would need resistors only if replacing your main indicators with LED's as your current would drop and the winker switch would think low current meant a blown bulb and would flash quickly). The resistors get very hot apparently abd say to mount only on metal. Given this is a plastic bar it was handy that I disn't have to use them. I used the stock headlight washer hose from the stock bumper, cutting the washer ends and using silicon grease to force them onto the Smartbar's washers (thought of transferring the stock ones but they'd be too short/wrong angle). That way I could keep the stock plug to the washer reservoir. Just finished, test driving now.

Any chance of some pictures? Especially the head light washers and the cove for the Washer Bottle...

Well I have just fitted a D1 Smart Bar to a D2 with Headlight Washers.

Old bumper and Bush Bar removed.



Roughly in position to see how it goes and to check lights.



Wombat bar back on for now, there is now an exposed gap at the bottom to the radiator. Old bumber had a mesh guard.



A side look to the mounts.



Tightened up and checking levels.

More photos to finish instal.

The bar comes with mounting marks for the D1 headlight washers but the D2 washers are different.. I just drilled a large hole next to on the inboard side and just put the retaining screw in so it pointed at the headlight. I also moved the jets to line them up (I hope) but will check the spray later..



Washers Fitted..




A little worries about the gap below the headlight??



Full Frontal.. The lights in the bar were rusted and broken, so I got some LED Technologies 175AW's off ebay.

Smart Bar were great and sent me instructions.