Thread: Ironman Kit 2" / 40mm

Topping out occurs when the shocks are fully extended which limits suspension travel and causes a thump.

Bottoming out is caused by suspension compression where the shock won't compress anymore. Thus the commonly used term bottomimg out.

Neither situation is ideal and should be addressed once experienced as in some extreme circumstances it can be dangerous. You can get both situations arise even if the shocks are the correct length if the shocks have lost their dampening qualities or the spring rates are not in balance with the shocks dampening rates.

It is very important to get springs and shocks that compliment each other, suit the weight of the vehicle and the tasks being asked of it.

If suspenion changes are going to be made that is why its worth the extra dollars to get a suspension expert to set up your vehicles suspenion whether it be car, motorcycle or 4x4. Most of us uninformed masses, myself included, can only try and guess what springs rates, spring lengths, shock dampening rates and shock lengths should be used for our vehicles and the specific tasks we are planning to use them for.

As for justifying the extra cost involved in getting an expert in the field to set up your suspenion it is usually much cheaper and far less frustrating to get it done correctly once by someone who knows what they are doing then having to do it twice because the wrong items were purchased and fitted.


cheers,
Terry

Originally Posted by Urban Panzer

Thanks for confirming my "thoughts"..........strange how its called "topping out" would make more sense to me if it was bottoming out.......

With extended shocks, any need for brake line extensions in your experience ?

I see your SLS kit relocates the bracket that mounts the brake pipe, mine does not have that, and tbh there is not enough play in the fixed line to drop the bracket anyway.

You should extend the brake lines when raising the suspension!!

Baz.

Originally Posted by TerryO

Topping out occurs when the shocks are fully extended which limits suspension travel and causes a thump.

Bottoming out is caused by suspension compression where the shock won't compress anymore. Thus the commonly used term bottomimg out.

Neither situation is ideal and should be addressed once experienced as in some extreme circumstances it can be dangerous. You can get both situations arise even if the shocks are the correct length if the shocks have lost their dampening qualities or the spring rates are not in balance with the shocks dampening rates.

It is very important to get springs and shocks that compliment each other, suit the weight of the vehicle and the tasks being asked of it.

If suspenion changes are going to be made that is why its worth the extra dollars to get a suspension expert to set up your vehicles suspenion whether it be car, motorcycle or 4x4. Most of us uninformed masses, myself included, can only try and guess what springs rates, spring lengths, shock dampening rates and shock lengths should be used for our vehicles and the specific tasks we are planning to use them for.

As for justifying the extra cost involved in getting an expert in the field to set up your suspenion it is usually much cheaper and far less frustrating to get it done correctly once by someone who knows what they are doing then having to do it twice because the wrong items were purchased and fitted.


cheers,
Terry

Im aware what topping / bottoming out is, its just back to front imo, when the shock "tops" out, its at the bottom of the shock travel and vice versa.........just seems a strange name for it to me thats all.

The shocks are going to be addressed, just have not yet made up my mind, and as far as choosing the correct stuff, I personally feel there is more than enough info out there on the web and from places like this. Everyone wants diff things from a lift etc, so no expert would ever cover all possibilites "imo"......and paying someone for knowledge which is readily available free is not on my agenda

Originally Posted by Redback

You should extend the brake lines when raising the suspension!!

Baz.

Well, Im going to do it anyway as new stainless lines would be better than the crusty factory ones, but from what I have read a Disco 2 is fine with standard brake lines with up to a 2" lift.....

Just wondered who had and why.....

Well today she got a set of +2" Terrafirma extended shocks, some new anti roll bar links, front spring seats and some nice +2" braided brake lines.............drives loooooooooovely now!!