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Thread: RoverGauge for 14CUX ECU

  1. #1
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    RoverGauge for 14CUX ECU

    Has anyone else tried the rovergauge software for the 14CUX ECUs? I downloaded it the other day and I have to say I'm rather impressed. It does require a USB to serial adaptor. I got one from DonTronics for $33.33 incl. shipping. Probably more than I would have liked to pay, but I do have other uses for it.

    Basically, I thought it might be useful for diagnostics on my newly rebuilt 3.9. It isn't running as smoothly as I would like, so I though this would be an easy way to check all the sensors that the ECU cares about. As it turns out, they all seem fine, so now I have to look closer at the ignition, but I do still like this software, almost enough to install a permanent computed in my dash.

    Download and docs can be found here: rovergauge - Graphical display for data read from the 14CUX engine management system - Google Project Hosting
    Here's a screenshot:

  2. #2
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    In addition to the first post, I found that this software also allows you to manually control the IAC valve. Very useful for testing whether it is functioning properly. I've also posted a quick YouTube video showing it working.
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CiriUSoD1go]Testing Rover V8 IAC valve stepper with RoverGauge - YouTube[/ame]

  3. #3
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    This is very cool. Thanks for sharing.

    I'm going to try it out myself.

    Was it difficult to build the cable?

    How did you connect it to diagnostic plug?
    97 D1 V8 SE manual - loud & locked - RPI Optimax & some toys
    09 D3 HSE
    Sold and missed: 03 D2a V8 auto

    LROCV member

    I love it when a plan comes together!
    John "Hannibal" Smith

  4. #4
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    No, not too difficult. I got the cable with the header on it, then used a four core phone wire to solder to the diag connector, then to a pin strip that plugs into the USB cable. I did this as a temporary thing until I decide on the best way to permanently wire it. Here are some pics:


    Note the thinner wires (black, blue and red) from the phone cable. I just soldered them onto the existing crimp connectors.


    The wires from the USB that are needed are the black, orange and yellow.

  5. #5
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    Excellent, You have just given me something else to do. Thanks
    I rule!!!

    2.4" of Pure FURY!!!

  6. #6
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    Well I finally got round to making a cable up and testing this out...

    Been over my installation three times and just can't get this to work.

    As soon as i attempt to connect to the ECU I hear a relay click twice, before the second click the engine has died and communication is lost (although still connected preventing the vehicle from starting until disconnected)

    Not sure where I have gone wrong?


    Cheers
    Grimace
    I rule!!!

    2.4" of Pure FURY!!!

  7. #7
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    Also tested on another vehicle and while that vehicle continued to run it did not connect correctly, switching the red and green communication light and could not give any data or read fault codes...

    I did utilise a 390ohm resistor instead of the 400ohm, but I read others had done this with success. Guess first thing to do is get a 400ohm resistor and then make another cable! grrr
    I rule!!!

    2.4" of Pure FURY!!!

  8. #8
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    Well I figured it out, woke up wondering if it was a software error and just mow got it working.

    Somehow I had not programed the FTDI to remain RXD inverted. Argh why did I not think to double check that yesterday?

    Think my little error may have damaged the wifi on the laptop as the networked did drop out after I connected to the second vehicle, now it seems I can no longer connect to wireless, lol.

    No worries thou it workin for everything else.

    Guess I just want to point out that I had to specifically program the FTDI cable from the FTDI software. Not sure if that's a step that I invented or if it was just obvious to most?

    Anyways thanks again, now to get back to sleep!!!
    I rule!!!

    2.4" of Pure FURY!!!

  9. #9
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    Glad to hear you got it working Grimace. I never had to use the software as I use Linux and the instructions differ slightly. I can't imagine why it would affect your wireless though, the two shouldn't be related at all.

    You also have to remember to remove the loopback on the connector that comes out of the vehicle. Apparently this simply grounds the line to limit interference, but I can't say I've noticed any difference with leaving it off.

  10. #10
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    Cheers again LittleRed, I have been using this with some success over the last few weeks.

    It has helped me diagnose faulty MAFs, a fault (more so and oversight) in a Mark Adams supplied chip, Check correct TPS operation. Also check true ECU rpm readings against my tach.
    Above all it has allowed me to better understand the running temps of my engine to aid in tuning the Haltech interceptor.

    Only minimal task, but all useful!

    Now I just need to get a better quality cable as the one I am using is looking pretty beat up already.


    Cheers
    Grimace
    I rule!!!

    2.4" of Pure FURY!!!

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