Thread: Which is the best OBD socket Diagnostic tool?

If you are looking for primarily diagnostics, rather than n a full blown tool to do settings changes etc, etc, you should have a peek at the Launch X431 iDiag. The interface is around $120-130, and a 12 months license code which covers all LR's from 1996 - 2011/12 at present is $66US a year.

I was pleasantly surprised with the D2 module support, and it is far more comprehensive on later model LR's.

Downside is it requires either an iOS or Android phone or tablet, and an internet connection for license authorisation. The diagnostic app is much nicer on tablet/ipad than on a phone which lacks some of the data display functionality.

Below is a very long winded instructional video of covering setup user account downloading modules etc. The last 5 minutes shows some of the features of the software in use.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilEnTdgxhd0]iDiag - YouTube[/ame]

cheers
Paul

OK now there is a new/alternate problem.

I decided I would try to connect multi meter leads to the wiring in on the compressor relays. I wasn’t going to monitor the main lead as the compressor was working but then decided I could monitor all the wires at the one point, at the main lead’s connector.

I did no more than touch the connector and the plug literally fell out of the socket and even when I pushed the plug home and heard the lock click, it still fell out in my hand.

This just confirms my claims this heap of crap has had a problem since the day it was made and the dealer obviously never checked anything, even though I had repeatedly made them aware of the problems I was having.

This will probably be the cause of why the Terrain Response has never worked properly from the day I drove this heap out of the showroom.

Now to the new problem.

The air suspension is now fully extended and I mean it has raised the RR the full 6” and I can’t get it to lower.

It keeps telling me to make sure the RR is clear of any objects and then to reset the height.

ANT IDEAS.

Would a full reset clear the problem?

Have you tried . After turning the ignition off , let it sit for 1/2 hour. Disconnect the battery. Leave for a awhile , touch leads together before reconnecting.

Hi Gary and thats the full reset.

I have had the battery disconnected for about fifteen minutes so far and I’ll leave it for at least an hour.

The last time I did a full reset, it fixed most of the problems I was having with the entertainment system.

can only wait and see what happens next.

Thanks mate.

I would be having another go at seating that connector. Any chance you've swapped wires around? I have the wiring schematic for your vehicle if it might be of use.

Edit: Where is this connector?

Are the leds for the raise and/or lower switch flashing? I suppose you would already have tried pressing each anyway.

Hi Gary and the full reset worked in reverse.

I’m back to having SUSPENSION FAILURE messages and now the Terrain Response has also failed. Nothing new there.

Hi Graeme and the connector is inside the Compressor Housing and is probably why the half-wits never found the problem, because they never looked for it.

Any ideas of how to manually lower this thing, it’s still at the full raised position?

It knows it's at extended height, it just won't lower.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Gary and thats the full reset.

I have had the battery disconnected for about fifteen minutes so far and I’ll leave it for at least an hour.

The last time I did a full reset, it fixed most of the problems I was having with the entertainment system.

can only wait and see what happens next.

Thanks mate.

You don't need to leave it that long. A few mins and cross your terminals for aprox 1m will do you a hard reset. But I highly doubt that will fix your problem.

I personally wouldn't bother with any of the suggested diagnostic tools. I've never used any of them so I can't comment on exactly what they can do......but for the money if I were in your position I would be buying an IDS VCM. prices vary but the last one I bought was just short of $300. It's the dealer diagnostic setup that was originally used on your car when it was built. Since the sale to TATA LR and jag have switched to it all being online so its not any good for the latest gear but for your car its perfect. Read your DTC's, clear em, investigate them, force your vehicle to do various things as you would expect from dealer level software, Program your keys, modules, real time display etc in short there isn't another diagnostic tool that even comes remotely close to the dealer setup other than auto logic. So for the price of a vcm so long as you know how to work it its your best bet. To be honest without any training itl just take you longer to work out how to use it but you will get there in the end

Oh and itl work on fords, mazda and jags if you also own any of these cars.
But you will need a laptop to use it. Have a google and a read up on the system.

Thanks for the info fonfe.

Graeme and if you don’t mind, I will take you up on the offer of the wiring diagram.

I’ll see if I can unplug the relays and power them from a remote supply and see if I can lower the air suspension that way.